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das (spring water flavored with fresh fruits and herbs, such as grapefruit-thyme, orange-
rosemary or lemon-ginger-mint) make a refreshing, if overpriced, accompaniment.
PV Restaurante Lounge URUGUAYAN $$$
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(pvloungerestaurante.com; Peatonal Sarandí 675; mains UR$270-375; 10am-8pm Mon-Fri,
10am-6pm Sat) Occupying the elegant upper floor of Más Puro Verso bookstore, this art
nouveau eatery with floor-to-ceiling bookshelves and grand windows overlooking Ci-
udad Vieja's pedestrian zone makes a pleasant hideaway at teatime, or at lunch for the
UR$330 menú del día (appetizer, main dish and dessert).
Café Bacacay FUSION $$$
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( www.bacacay.com.uy ; Bacacay 1306; dishes UR$210-430; 9am-1am Mon-Fri, 10am-1am Sat)
This chic little cafe across from Teatro Solís serves a variety of goodies: fish of the day
with wasabi or limoncello (lemon liqueur) sauce; build-your-own salads with tasty in-
gredients such as grilled eggplant, spinach and smoked salmon; and a wide-ranging
drinks menu. Desserts include pear tart and apple cake with ice cream.
Doméstico CAFE, VEGETARIAN $$$
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( www.domestico.com.uy ; Reconquista 587; mains UR$220-290; 10am-7pm Mon-Fri, 11am-5pm
Sat; ) Tucked into the back of an artsy gift shop, this bright little cafe features a short
menu of soups, salads and daily specials, with options for vegetarians, especially on
'meat-free Mondays.'
Cervecería Matriz BEER HALL $$$
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( www.matriz.com.uy ; Sarandí 582; dishes UR$195-390; 8am-1am Mon-Sat) Join the crowds
enjoying beer and chivitos (Uruguay's classic steak sandwich) under the trees at this in-
formal eatery on Ciudad Vieja's most picturesque square.
Mercado del Puerto PARRILLA $$$
$$$
(Pérez Castellano; mains UR$200-700; 11am-6pm) This converted market on Ciudad
Vieja's waterfront remains a Montevideo classic, even if the steady influx of cruise ships
into the adjacent port has made it increasingly pricey. Take your pick of the densely
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