Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Bus Turístico
BUS TOUR
(
www.busturisticomontevideo.com.uy
;
24hr/48hr ticket UR$416/640; 9am-5pm summer,
9:30am-3:30pm winter)
Originating at Mercado del Puerto, this hop-on, hop-off double-
decker tourist bus makes a nine-stop, 2½-hour circuit through Montevideo, with audio
commentary in nine languages. Buses serve each stop approximately once an hour.
DON'T MISS
CARNAVAL IN MONTEVIDEO
If you thought Brazil was South America's only Carnaval capital, think again! Mon-
tevideanoscut loose in a big way every February, with music and dance filling the
air for a solid month.
Not to be missed is the early February
Desfile de las Llamadas
, a two-night
parade of comparsas(neighborhood Carnaval societies) through the streets of
Palermo and Barrio Sur districts, just southeast of the Centro. Comparsasare
made up of negros(persons of African descent) and lubolos(white people who
paint their faces black for Carnaval, a long-standing Uruguayan tradition). Neigh-
borhood rivalries play themselves out as wave after wave of dancers whirl to the
electrifying rhythms of traditional Afro-Uruguayan candombedrumming, beaten
on drums of three different pitches: the chico(soprano), repique(contralto) and
piano(tenor). The heart of the parade route is Isla de Flores, between Salto and
Gaboto. Spectators can pay for a chair on the sidewalk or try to snag a spot on one
of the balconies overlooking the street.
Another key element of Montevideo's Carnaval are the murgas,organized
groups of 15 to 17 gaudily dressed performers, including three percussionists, who
perform original pieces of musical theater, often satirical and based on political
themes. During the dictatorship in Uruguay, murgaswere famous for their sub-
versive commentary. All murgasuse the same three instruments: the bombo(bass
drum), redoblante(snare drum) and platillos(cymbals). Murgasplay all over the
city, and also compete throughout February in Parque Rodó at the
Teatro de Verano
(admission from UR$70)
. The competition has three rounds, with judges determining
who advances and who gets eliminated.
The fascinating history of Montevideo's Carnaval is well documented in the city's
Museo del Carnaval (
Click here
). Another great way to experience Carnaval out of
season is by attending one of the informal candombepractice sessions that erupt
in neighborhood streets throughout the year. Two good places to find these are at
the corner of Isla de Flores and Gaboto in Palermo, and in Parque Rodó, where the
Gonzalo Ramírez and continues down San Salvador. Drumming at both locations
usually starts around 7pm on Sunday nights.