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I realized that, in a few days time, I would be at the end of my cruise. I was too tired really
to think beyond the relief it would bring. I could sleep again. I could walk on solid ground
and buy a plate of hot food! I wouldn't have to keep such a constant vigil on the horizon,
day and night, nor grapple with wet, cold, and bad mannered sails in howling winds at three
in the graveyard hour. Hot showers! Yay! Cold beers! Yay! Girls! Yay! People, the bustle
of life! Sort of Yay!
But, in the same breath, no more purple sky at night with those bright, yellow stars twink-
ling above, as they sway back and forth across the silent mast and rigging. No more regal,
natural, and quiet whoosh as the wind passed over a well-cut sail and drove my sweet little
boat on, ever on, wherever I wanted to go. Whenever.
No more full moon and its magic light across a black, velvet ocean. No more breath-taking
sunset. No more would I have that first cup of coffee at sunrise, when the whole world is
seen around you and it is safe and real. No more would I have those icy showers of sting-
ing rain after days of heat and sweat, that cool relief that steals over one and washes out
yesterday, and brings on the promise of a new day.
No more would I have the huge fish caught so easily over the back of the boat, the heav-
enly aroma as it cooks in the cabin. Not to mention the sight of land after days, weeks at
sea! Not to mention exploring new places and meeting new people! Not to mention the
endless satisfaction that comes from sailing a well-found little boat, out of sight of land,
safe, cozy, and alone.
I thought of these things sometimes on those last days out alone. I was dreading the arrival
as much as welcoming the inevitable end. Is there life after cruising?
Time would tell….
16 th November: I fell into a deep sleep. I had not intended sleeping this long! When I had
laid my head down for a catnap, I could barely make out the smoky, grey hump of Hawaii,
some thirty miles ahead of me.
I awoke with a start and leapt out of my bunk, heart pounding, my eyes wide open. I raced
up the steps and stared out into the black night in front. My God! What a sight met my eyes!
The very active Kilauea volcano had been erupting, and as I stared at the black silhouette
of the island, now just a few miles ahead of me, I saw the brilliant red and orange lacings
of lava flowing down the mountainside into the valley and into the sea. It looked as though
Kilauea was wearing several red necklaces.
As I did not want to make landfall at night, I entered into Plan B and veered west-northwest
and headed towards Oahu. I knew I would have to cross the Alenuihaha Channel between
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