Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
side to start with. An oyster will emit layers of a calcium rich substance around this grit
to accommodate this uncomfortable, foreign object. The more layers it deposits, the larger
the pearl. Cultured pearls are, of course, pearls that are formed when a farmer inserts this
foreign object into an oyster.
What I loved about these pearls was their natural formation; these were the real deal, dived
up in their natural habitat. Not all the oysters were thrown over the side either, I had a meal
that night with rice and steamed oysters washed in seawater and seasoned with salt and
pepper and butter with a dash of lemon juice; it was wonderful!
The following morning I went for a jog towards the airport and as far west as I could go. It
wasn't going to be a six miler, but I needed the exercise, and I was able to see the rest of
the atoll. I saw no trace of the other village on the other side of the lagoon.
When I left Penrhyn about two weeks later, word had got out that there were visitors, and
some of the villagers on the other side made the boat journey over to barter goods with me
for pearls. They were very shrewd and offered me second rate pearls for items I had on-
board that I knew I could replace back in Hawaii. Things like cutlery, plates, mugs, cooking
pots, fishing tackle, diving gear, etc. I felt sorry for some of them and bartered blind to a
few of them. One commodity that was highly sought after were guitar strings. I was amazed
to see how many guitars there were on this little island. One Friday night I went ashore and
was attracted by the sound of local disco music coming from the park behind the post of-
fice. On my way over I was amazed to see young people sitting under the coconut trees in
groups of four or five with a guitar or two. The group were either listening to the guitarists
or singing along. It was enchanting. They sat in the gloom of the sparse street lights, play-
ing their guitars. I eventually followed the sound of the disco music and found the young
disco group dancing wildly to the local hits.
The Cook Islanders are great dancers and very sexual in their fluid movements. It almost
borders on pornography! I stood in the shadows watching, fascinated. Some of the young
women were absolutely stunning. I recognized Maleea with her group of friends. She ap-
peared to be very confident, bolstered up no doubt by her young peers. She waved gaily at
me, and titters broke out amongst them. Their dancing includes a very complicated side-
ways movement with their knees shaking from side to side, I call it the scissors. It is hyp-
notic to watch and very difficult to do, as I was to find out in the days to come.
I was keen on making the coconut guitar that Faali had offered, and the following day, be-
ing Saturday, I went over to their hut. Young Tongi came running over and threw his arms
around my waist in an uninhibited show of affection. I was very touched and made a show
of how sweet I thought he was. I had brought them a bag of boiled candies that I had been
given in New Zealand. Tongi's attention was soon diverted to the contents of the bag. Kids!
