Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
I would do maintenance chores on these calm days, maybe checking the engine fluids and
topping up if necessary. I would oil rusty hinges on the doors and port holes or check the
tension in the rigging, inspecting turnbuckles and shackles. One night, as I attempted to re-
move the companionway steps to start the engine, I failed to see young Paula's foot in the
way. As I swung the heavy steps around, they caught her big toe and partly ripped off her
nail. The poor lass screamed in pain.
“Jesus Christ!” she shrieked.
“Oh God, Paula girl, I'm so sorry. I didn't see you there honey,” I said sheepishly.
The worst part was the necessity to remove the nail completely from her toe, as it would
only catch on everything in her way. I produced some hot water, sugar, and a liberal dash
of whiskey, handing it to the poor girl who was lying down on her bunk. The lad looked
distraught and helped as best he could. When Paula had downed her “anesthetic,” I gripped
her nail with a pair of pliers and jerked it off her toe. She wailed in pain, and my heart went
out to her. I took her head in my hands and tried to comfort her. I felt very guilty and tender
at the same time. Her cries became sobs, and she eventually fell asleep from the whiskey.
Both Herman and I stood her watches for a few days.
By early the next morning, the wind had picked up, and soon the lad and I had to douse the
two large Genoa sails, battling to remove the whisker poles on the heaving deck. The rough
seas brought out a school of curious porpoises from nowhere. They could be seen in vast
numbers hobby-horsing around. We were shocked when the closest one breathed heavily,
and with a human sigh, shot a spout of foul water out of the hole in its head. While the
smell of rotting fish on its breath was quite nauseating, it was thrilling to see them sport-
ing about, and I felt both humbled and honored that they had chosen to come over to visit
our little boat. We were in their playground and regarded the mammals with respect and
amusement. The fish were showing off now, charging along underwater, streaking past the
boat, and hurtling out of the water in an explosion of silvery, blue droplets. I saw with
pleasure that both Paula and Herman felt as I did about our visitors. I quickly reeled in the
fishing line trailing behind the boat.
“Don't want to catch any of these fish by accident,” I said quietly. Alas, all too soon the
last of the spouts was lost to view as the pod frolicked ahead, and again we were alone at
sea. Paula and Herman remained above deck talking about the visiting school of porpoises.
I swung below, and with a flaring match lit the paraffin lantern, which cast a friendly, yel-
low light about the cabin as it swung merrily from the ceiling. I turned the wick down
low and, removing my clothing, lay down on my bunk with my ear on the mast partner. I
promptly heard my ancient men friends singing and muttering to me from inside the mast.
I felt a little dispirited this evening and asked them why I had chosen to do this sailing
