Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
the engine, suggesting the best markets, and introducing us to some of the other friendly
sailors during happy hour at the old Pago Pago bar on the waterfront.
I knew that we were going to get a visit from an angry French sailor very soon. Now here,
out of the corner of my eye, I saw the Frenchman rowing briskly over towards us. “Oh boy,
here comes trouble,” I observed.
Actually, we were pleasantly shocked at his mild and diplomatic approach to our little col-
lision. I think he was more interested in Penny and her flimsy sarong that she had just
wrapped around her tanned and youthful, young body. Before he could say anything, I apo-
logized for the mishap and told him I had been under a lot of stress and did not see his
dinghy until almost on top of it. He was most gracious and said that there was just a bit of
varnish that had been scraped off the wooden rub rail. To this, I replied that we would be
only too happy to revarnish it for him. He was thrilled to the core when Penny actually vo-
lunteered to do the job herself. I looked at her suspiciously, and she grinned mischievously.
“Don't worry, I don't have the hots for him; he's married anyway,” she said later that even-
ing. “I think you have enough on your plate,” she rubbed her soft hand through my hair.
I looked into her clear, young eyes; all signs of my outburst had vanished; she was now
much more a part of Déjà vu after today's sailing adventure.
After securing the boat, we relaxed and took in the newness of the place. One could feel
the presence of the surrounding Matai mountain range, emerald green and imposing. To the
south of us lay the entrance to the harbor and the ocean. There was a comic little rock that
had an unlikely but opportunistic coconut tree growing from the top. It almost looked like
a huge potted plant. There were waving coconut trees as far as the eye could tell. To the
north were the tuna fisheries with a couple of the huge boats idling at anchor. It was nice to
be on steady ground again and in a new town just waiting to be explored.
We collected our passports and papers after the health official had departed and made our
way to the customs offices where we cleared in. It was here that we first encountered the
huge Samoan people, the men especially. We had never seen such massive human beings
before. The officials wore the traditional skirts with the pointy pleats at the fringe, but in-
stead of making them look feminine, it showed off these men's massive tree-trunk legs.
They were efficient, and the clearing in was accomplished quickly.
We walked about the immediate town and were rather disappointed by the apathetic looks
of the place and the almost offhand way of the locals. It has been noted that American
Samoa is not a true reflection of the real Samoa, also known as “the friendly isles.” Unfor-
tunately, along with the virtual overnight wealth from the United States came the nouveau
riche attitude of these simple-living folk. In a sense, they were spoilt by the instant wealth
whereas in Western Samoa, the people are a lot friendlier, and the place generally is much
