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hula-skirted Hawaiian lasses dancing along the shore under the swaying coconut trees, red
flowers behind their ears, and leis around their sexy necks beckoning us in.
We sailed close to the northern coastline, admiring the heavily forested island and chewing
hungrily on what was the last of our food, the fish jerky.
I said to Gavin, “Wouldn't it be funny if one day we owned a farm on this island? Wouldn't
that be cool!”
I radioed ahead and spoke with the harbormaster. He directed us towards Radio Bay in
Hilo, and soon the fenders nudged softly along the old, concrete dock at exactly sixteen
hundred hours. Several willing hands took our lines, and we clambered unsteadily ashore.
We were met by a kindly, fat, old man who introduced himself as the harbormaster. He led
us to his office where we cleared in and went through the usual paperwork. I noticed at
once that the formalities here on U.S. soil was a lot more complex than previous places. He
explained that these U.S.-owned islands were highly sought after by illegal immigrants and
nefarious drug smugglers, and the documentation of visitors had to be accordingly strin-
gent. He was amazed that we had been at sea for so long and commented on how emaciated
we looked.
We enquired where we could buy some food and cigarettes. I have a vivid memory of Gav-
in and I weaving unsteadily, sailor-fashion, down the road in search of these stores. We
bought a packet of Marlboro cigarettes, a coke, a hot dog, and a chocolate bar, and sat on
the side of the dock wolfing down the hot dog and coke. That was followed by the chocol-
ate bar and more coke, and then we lit up and thoroughly enjoyed our Marlboro cigarettes
much to the amusement of the local sailors.
The generosity and friendship was immediately felt from the locals. There was very def-
initely a feeling of Aloha and little did Gavin and I know then what was in store for us in
Hawaii. It was to become our second home. I remained in Hawaii, on and off for the next
twenty years of my life, fourteen of which I would stay on the beautiful island of Kauai.
On and off I say, because Gavin and I had still many sailing adventures ahead of us, and
this was by no means the end of the line. If anything, this is where it all started happening
for us.
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