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we had to speak slowly in monosyllables to them as our Spanish was confined to a dismal,
few basics.
By ten o' clock the last song was played, and the patrons scrambled for a last dance and
a last round. Gavin and I were delighted with the two lovely senoritas that had latched on
to us and were very pleasantly surprised when they willingly accompanied us back to the
boat. They loved the dinghy ride and were charmed by our yacht. We sat outside in the
cockpit with an oil lamp swinging in the rigging while the spicy, warm breeze filled our
nostrils with exotic fragrances. The enchanting company of these two girls was wonderful
therapy to both Gavin and I. In the morning I rowed the girls back to shore. I gave mine
a passionate goodbye kiss, “I shall always remember you when I think of the Galapagos.”
They were heaven sent.
We planned on walking to the Darwin Museum the next morning, and I loaded a backpack
with a light lunch, a bottle of water, and my little, yellow, underwater camera. The route
along the shoreline was beautiful. Radiant, colorful, tropical flowers adorned the grassy
path, and large rock gardens added a depth to the walk.
We came across a stream which we crossed on a rickety, old, wooden bridge which I just
had to photograph. Rounding a bend in the path we saw a shrine to Christ in a beautifully
maintained garden. He was coming out of a cave, and there were glorious flowers and ferns
sculptured around a tinkling waterfall. Votive candles adorned the top of the mound where
the cave was sited. Birds had nested in and around the trees and shrubs in this little Garden
of Eden, and feeding trays were evidence that they were encouraged. I naturally took a few
photos of this peaceful sight. My mother would surely appreciate this.
Of course we had to take one of Gavin in front of it and then one of me. It was wonderful
to see such a place as this, and made me think of how man has been inspired to greatness
through the power of religion. He has been moved to heights far greater than he ever ima-
gined and sunk to the greatest depths of despair as well. We talked as we walked; perhaps
one of the problems with our modern world was the loss of this divine inspiration through
scientific rationalization. That there is no such thing as a God is the loss of a great tonic for
those who would otherwise believe.
We arrived at the Museo de Charles Darwin and toured around it in fascination. We went
outside to the great tortoise cages around the back and marveled at these ancient, peaceful,
and cumbersome creatures. Excerpts of Darwin's account appeared before me of how these
tortoises had evolved differently to the uniqueness of the different islands in this chain. I
could picture him scrambling about as a brilliant, young man, completely fascinated with
these treasure troves of islands. It was really hard to believe that navy sailors from civilized
countries would load these leviathans alive in the holds below of their war ships, packing
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