Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Chapter Nine
St. Barts and other Caribbean Islands.
Losing the hair.
Clearrr Orrrfff this island!
Close encounter with shark.
Mutiny on the Mary Ellen.
Panama Canal.
Gavin and I had spent a couple of weeks working on various woodwork projects and had
earned some real U.S. dollars for the first time. This was to be the first time that he and I had
cruised together apart from the near disaster off the Cape in South Africa some years before.
We decided to cruise through the British Virgin Islands after sailing to the nearby island of
St. Bartholomew, or “St. Barts” for short.
Hitching a ride to the local supermarket and stores, Gavin and I worked our way through a
seemingly endless list of provisions ranging from condensed milk to spare fan belts for the
engine. Loaded down like pack horses, we were soon picked up by a sympathetic local and
ferried back to the boat. The list took several days to tick off, and by the end of the week,
Déjà vu was loaded to the gunnels with unstowed provisions and spares. St. Maarten was by
far the cheapest island on which to stock up, especially in Philipsburg, the cheapest side of
the island. Every effort was made to stock up on all possible essentials, eventualities, and a
few luxuries as well. Cartons of Marlboro cigarettes and bottles of wine and good, quality
rum were purchased at very low prices due to the import tax haven. Fresh fruit and veget-
ables were bought as well as beef, bacon, and canned meats and meals. Powdered milk, cer-
eal, porridge and sugar, treacle and jams, and spices and herbs were purchased along with
packets of dehydrated foods. There was no point in going hungry, and, according to surviv-
al studies, it is always recommended that one carry at least twenty percent more food and
water than expected.
We had a slight fall out with a local cashier at the hardware store. Her attitude toward us ap-
peared to be the general attitude towards foreigners or white people; I never did figure it out.
She was not only unhelpful but rude as well. “Excuse me madam!” Gavin finally exploded,
“I don't know if you realize this, but our money is as green as the next person, and it's people
like us in your shop that are actually paying you your salary!” With that he snatched up the
purchase and change and stormed out of the store. I saw the whole episode and couldn't
have agreed more, although I probably would have just stared at her and walked off, hoping
she got some sort of message from that. “What a bitch. Christ, don't these locals understand
anything?” he exploded passionately as we trochled back to the boat. It was definitely time
to get going.
