Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
wagons and drive a hundred yards. It made me realize how much cars and suburbs-and in-
discriminate wealth-have spoiled American life. Charleston had the climate and ambience
of a Naples, but the wealth and style of a big American city. I was enchanted. I walked
away the afternoon, up and down the peaceful streets, secretly admiring all these impos-
sibly happy and good-looking people and their wonderful homes and rich, perfect lives.
The promontory ended in a level park, where children wheeled and bounced on BMXs and
youngcouples strolled handinhandandFrisbees sailed throughthe longstrips ofdarkand
light caused by the lowering sun filtering through the magnolia trees. Every person was
youthful, good-looking and well scrubbed. It was like wandering into a Pepsi commercial.
Beyond the park, a broad stone promenade overlooked the harbor, vast and shimmery and
green. I went and peered over the edge. The water slapped the stone and smelled of fish.
Two miles out you could see the island of Fort Sumter, where the Civil War began. The
promenade was crowded with cyclists and sweating joggers, who weaved expertly among
the pedestrians and shuffling tourists. I turned around and walked back to the car, the sun
warm on my back, and had the sneaking feeling that after such perfection things were
bound to be downhill from now on.
