Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
bars in America are dark and full of moody characters-people drinking alone and staring
straight ahead.There'snoneofthatagreeable coffeehouseatmosphere thatyoufindinbars
in Europe. American bars are, by and large, just dark places to get drunk in. I don't like
them much, but this one was OK. It was snug and quiet and well lit, so I could sit and read.
Before too long I was fairly well lit myself. This was also OK.
InthemorningIawokeearlyandgavethesteamywindowawipewithmyhandtoseewhat
kind of day it was. The answer was: not a good one. The world was full of sleety snow,
dancing about in the wind like a plague of white insects. I switched on the TV and crept
back into the warm bed. The local PBS station came on. PBS is the Public Broadcasting
System, what we used to call educational TV. It is supposed to show quality stuff, though
because it is always strapped for funds this consists mostly of BBC melodramas starring
Susan Hampshire and domestically produced programs that cost about twelve dollars to
make_ cookery programs, religious discussions, local high-school wrestling matches. It's
pretty well unwatchable most of the time, and it's getting worse. In fact, the station I was
watching was holding a telethon to raise funds for itself. Two middle-aged men in casual
clothes were sitting in swivel chairs, with a pair of phones on a table between them, asking
for money. They were trying to look perky and cheerful, but there was a kind of despera-
tion in their eyes.
“Wouldn't it be tragic for your children if they didn't have 'Sesame Street' anymore?” one
of them was saying to the camera. “So come on, moms and dads, give us a call and make a
pledgenow.”Butnobodywascalling.Sothetwotalkedtoeachotheraboutallthewonder-
ful programs on PBS. They had clearly been having this conversation for some time. After
awhileoneofthemhadaphonecall. “I'vehadmyfirstcaller,”hesaidasheputthephone
down. “It was from Melanie Bitowski of Traverse City and it's her fourth birthday today.
So happy birthday, honey. But next time you or any of you other kids call in, why don't
you get your mom or dad to pledge some money, sweetheart?” These guys were clearly
begging for their jobs, and the whole of northern Michigan was turning a blind eye to their
pleadings.
I showered and dressed and packed up my bag, all the while keeping an eye on the TV to
see if anyone made a pledge, and no one ever did. When I switched off, one of them was
saying,withjustahintofpeevishness,“Nowcomeon,Ican'tbelievethatnobodyoutthere
iswatchingus.Somebodymustbeawakeoutthere.Somebodymustwanttopreservequal-
ity public television for themselves and their children.” But he was wrong.
I had a large breakfast in the same place I had eaten the night before and then, because
there was absolutely nothing else to do, I went and stood on the quayside, waiting for the
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