Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
281
sections are well tended. A tiny aquarium sits neglected behind the old branch, but the
gardens here are lovely.
Jalan Tun Haji Openg.
&
082/244-232.
Free admission. Sat-Thurs 9am-4:30pm; Fri 9am-12:45pm and
3-4:30pm.
Square Tower
The to wer, built in 1879, ser ved as a prison camp , but today the
waterfront r eal estate is better ser ved b y an information center for trav el agents. The
Square Tower is also a prime star ting place for a str oll along the riv erside and is wher e
you'll also find out about cultural per formances and exhibitions held at the water front,
or call the number below for performance schedules.
Jalan Gambier near the riverfront.
&
082/426-093.
Free admission.
Tua Pek Kong Temple
At a main crossroads near the river stands the oldest Chinese
temple in Sarawak. Although officially it is dated at 1876, most locals ackno wledge the
true date of its beginnings as 1843. t's still lively in form and spirit, with colorful dragons
tumbling along the walls and incense filling the air .
Junction of Jalan Tunku Abdul Rahman and Jalan Padungan. Free admission.
Touring Local Culture
One of the highlights of a trip to Sarawak is a visit to a longhouse community. Trips can
last from simple overnight stays to 2-week intensive discovery tours. It goes without say-
ing that shor ter trips venture only as far as those longhouse villages closest to K uching.
The benefit is that these communities are at ease with foreigners and so are better able to
demonstrate their culture. The drawback is that these villages are the ones most trampled
by coachloads of tourists looking to gawk at “ primitive tribes.” Basically, the more time
you have, the deeper you will venture into the interior and the mor e time you will have
to spend with differ ent ethnic gr oups, allo wing gr eater insight into these fascinating
cultures.
A typical longhouse trip star ts with a v an ride fr om Kuching followed by a longtail
boat ride upriv er, through gorgeous for ests. If you are stopping in only for the night,
you'll be w elcomed, fed, and enter tained—the food is generally edible and always pr e-
pared under sanitar y conditions. F ruits are delicious. Your guide, thr ough translations,
will help you chat with villagers and ask questions about their lifestyle and customs. A t
night you will sleep in a longhouse provided especially for guests. It's basic but cool, with
mosquito nets (very necessary) provided. The following day includes a v ery brief jungle
trek, plus hunting and fishing demonstrations befor e your departure back from whence
you came. I f y our trip is longer , y ou will pr obably av oid the closer villages and head
straight for more remote communities, depending on how much time (and money) you
have.
Your average overnight longhouse tour will set y ou back up to RM600 ($174/£108)
per person. Good tour operators making longhouse tours ar e
Asian Overland Services,
126 G reen H eights Commr cial Centr e (
&
082/451-1309;
www .asianoverland.com.
my), and
Telang Usan Travel & Tours,
Ban Hock Road (
&
082/236-945;
fax 082/236-
589). These agencies can also arrange trips into S arawak's national parks.
15
TOURING SARAWAK'S NATIONAL PARKS
The S arawak National Parks & Wildlife Centr e has opened access to all of S arawak's
national parks to DIY (do-it-y ourself) travelers. From their booking center in K uching,
you can apply for par ks permits and book r eservations in state-run lodging within each
