Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
278
EL MALPAIS: EXPLORING THE BADLANDS
Designated a national monument in 1987, El Malpais (Spanish for “badlands”) is an
outstanding example of the volcanic landscapes in the United States. El Malpais contains
115,000 acres of cinder cones, vast lava flows, hundreds of lava tubes, ice caves, sand-
stone cliffs, natural bridges and arches, Anasazi ruins, ancient Native American trails, and
Spanish and Anglo homesteads.
Essentials
GETTING THERE
You can take one of two approaches to El Malpais, via NM 117 or
NM 53. NM 117 exits I-40 7 miles east of Grants.
VISITOR INFORMATION
Admission to El Malpais is free (unless you're visiting the
privately owned Ice Caves), and it's open to visitors year-round. The
visitor center,
off
Route 53 between mile markers 63 and 64, is open daily from 8:30am to 4:30pm. Here
you can pick up maps of the park, leaflets on specific trails, and other details about
exploring the monument. For more information, contact
El Malpais National Monu-
ment,
NPS, P.O. Box 939, Grants, NM 87020 (
&
505/285-4641;
www.nps.gov/
elma).
Seeing the Highlights
From
Sandstone Bluffs Overlook
(10 miles south of I-40 off NM 117), many craters
are visible in the lava flow, which extends for miles along the eastern flank of the Conti-
nental Divide. The most recent flows are only 1,000 years old; Native American legends
tell of rivers of “fire rock.” Seventeen miles south of I-40 is
La Ventana Natural Arch,
the largest accessible natural arch in New Mexico.
From NM 53, which exits I-40 just west of Grants, visitors have access to the
Zuni-
Acoma Trail,
an ancient Pueblo trade route that crosses four major lava flows in a 7.5-
mile (one-way) hike. A printed trail guide is available.
El Calderon,
a forested area 20
miles south of I-40, is a trail head for exploring a cinder cone, lava tubes, and a bat cave.
(
Warning:
Hikers should not enter the bat cave or otherwise disturb the bats.)
The largest of all Malpais cinder cones,
Bandera Crater
is on private property 25
miles south of I-40. The National Park Service has plans to absorb this commercial
operation, known as
Ice Caves Resort
(
&
888/ICE-CAVE
[423-2283] or 505/783-
4303; www.icecaves.com). For a fee ($9 for adults and $4 for children 5-12), visitors
hike up the crater or walk to the edge of an ice cave. It's open daily from 8am to 7pm in
summer and from 8am to 4pm in winter (generally closing 1 hr. before sunset).
Perhaps the most fascinating phenomenon of El Malpais is the lava tubes, formed
when the outer surface of a lava flow cooled and solidified. When the lava river drained,
tunnel-like caves were left. Ice caves within some of the tubes have delicate ice-crystal
ceilings, ice stalactites, and floors like ice rinks.
10
Hiking & Camping
El Malpais has several hiking trails, including the above-mentioned Zuni-Acoma Trail.
Most are marked with rock cairns; some are dirt trails. The best times to hike this area
are during spring and fall, when it's not too hot. You're pretty much on your own when
you explore this area, so prepare accordingly. Carry plenty of water with you; do not
drink surface water. Carrying first-aid gear is always a good idea because the lava rocks
can be extremely sharp and inflict nasty cuts. Never go into a cave alone. The park service
advises wearing hard hats, boots, protective clothing, and gloves, and carrying three
