Travel Reference
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If you like to soak in warm springs, head to Jemez. The waters running through
the area are high in mineral content. In fact, the owner of Jemez Springs Bath
House, 62 NM 4, on the Jemez Springs Plaza ( & 505/829-3303; www.jemez
springsbathhouse.com), says they are so healing, more than once she's had to
run after visitors who walked off without their canes. This bathhouse was one
of the first structures to be built in what is now Jemez Springs. It is open daily
10am to 8pm.
Another option in town is the Giggling Springs ( & 505/829-9175;
www.gigglingsprings.com), across the street from the Laughing Lizard Inn &
Cafe (see above). A small outdoor pool, surrounded by sandstone and funky
art, highlights this place. The Jemez River acts as a cold plunge. It's open
Wednesday to Sunday 11am to 8pm, with an abbreviated schedule in winter.
Reservations are recommended.
Cañon del Rio, on a long bow of the Jemez River, a small, fast-flowing stream lined with
cottonwoods. Built in 1994, the inn has clean lines and comfortable rooms, each named
after a Native American tribe. Each has a sliding glass door that opens out to a patio,
where there's a fountain. Located on the river are decks for enjoying nature, and there's
a heated pool. The beds are comfortable, with good reading lights. The Great Room has
a cozy, welcoming feel, with a big-screen TV, as well as a large table where breakfast is
served family style. Smoking is not allowed.
16445 (Scenic) NM 4, Jemez Springs, NM 87025. & 505/829-4377. www.canondelrio.com. 7 units.
$119-$200 double, depending on the season; house $125-$150. Rates include full breakfast with inn
room. AE, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Jacuzzi; outdoor pool. In room: A/C, hair dryer, Wi-Fi.
9
The Laughing Lizard Inn & Cafe AMERICAN This is the kind of small-town
cafe that doesn't need to try to have a personality. It already has thick adobe walls, wood
floors, and a wood-burning stove for its innate charm. Added touches are the brightly
painted walls and funky old tables. If there were a Western version of the Whistle Stop
Cafe, this would be it. The menu is somewhat eclectic—most dishes have a bit of an
imaginative flair. The burritos come in a variety of types, such as fresh spinach with black
beans, mushrooms, jack cheese, salsa, and guacamole. The homemade pizzas, made with
blue-corn crusts, feature ingredients such as pesto, sun-dried tomatoes, and feta, or more
basic ones with red sauce as well. Beer and wine are served, and there are daily dessert
treats such as piñon pie, chocolate mousse, and berry cobbler. The staff is friendly and
accommodating. A small inn attached to the cafe provides inexpensive rooms that are
clean but a bit timeworn.
17526 NM 4, Jemez Springs, NM 87025. & 505/829-3108. www.thelaughinglizard.com. Main courses
lunch $5-$10, dinner $6-$13. DISC, MC, V. May-Nov Tues-Sat 11am-8pm, Sun 11am-6pm; Dec-Apr
Thurs-Sat 11am-8pm, Sun 11am-6pm.
 
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