Travel Reference
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over on the edges and sprinkled with sesame seeds. The sauce is unthinkably tasty, and
the variations are broad. There's the Killer, with sun-dried tomatoes, Gorgonzola, green
chile, and black olives; and my favorite, pizza Florentine (spinach, basil, sun-dried toma-
toes, chicken breast, mushrooms, capers, and garlic, sautéed in white wine). Check out
the small selection of wines and large selection of microbrews.
712 Paseo del Pueblo Norte (just north of Allsup's). & 575/758-3112. Reservations recommended Sat-
Sun and holidays. Pizzas $13-$28; pastas and calzones $10-$13. MC, V. Summer daily 11am-10pm;
winter Sun-Thurs 11am-9pm, Fri-Sat 11am-10pm.
Trading Post Café Finds NORTHERN ITALIAN/INTERNATIONAL One
of my tastiest writing assignments was when I did a profile of this restaurant for the New
York Times. Chef/owner René Mettler spent 3 hours serving course after course of dishes
prepared especially for us. If you think this gastronomical orgy might color my opinion,
just ask anyone in town where he or she most likes to eat. Even notables such as Dennis
Hopper and Gene Hackman will likely name the Trading Post. What draws the crowds
here is a gallery atmosphere, where rough plastered walls washed with an orange hue are
set off by sculptures, paintings, and photographs. If you show up without reservations,
be prepared to wait for a table, and don't expect quiet romance: The place bustles. A bar
encloses an open-exhibition kitchen. If you're dining alone or just don't feel like waiting
for a table, the bar is a fun place to sit. Although the focus is on the fine food, diners can
feel comfortable here, even if trying three appetizers and skipping the main course. The
outstanding Caesar salad has an interesting twist—garlic chips. You'll find a nice variety
of pastas on the menu; the fettuccine alla carbonara is tasty, as is the seafood pasta.
Heartier appetites might like the New Zealand lamb chops with tomato-mint sauce. A
good list of beers and wines rounds out the experience.
4179 Paseo del Pueblo Sur, Ranchos de Taos. & 575/758-5089. Reservations recommended. Menu
items $8-$30. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Tues-Sat 11:30am-9:30pm; Sun 4-9:30pm.
INEXPENSIVE
Gutiz Finds FRENCH/NUEVO LATINO Between azure walls hung with
bright contemporary art, this restaurant, the creation of Chef Eduardo Gutiz, serves
some of Taos's most unique and flavorful cuisine. Born in Spain, raised in France, he
traveled in Peru and Bolivia. From these locales, he's combined flavors using organic
greens and fresh meats and fish, and a broad variety of chile peppers. Service is friendly
and efficient. Breakfast brings delicacies such as my favorite, the Taoseño (some mornings
I wake up in Santa Fe and want to drive to Taos just to eat this!)—rice, potatoes, chile,
cheese, and fresh herbs baked in a ceramic dish and then topped with scrambled eggs.
The French toast is thick, made with home-baked bread. Lunch might begin with a
niçoise salad made with fresh tuna, French beans, veggies, potatoes, and niçoise olives.
Another favorite is the tilapia, cooked with white wine. The many, varied sandwiches
come on homemade bread. Alongside the great food, sip from a variety of coffees and
chai tea.
812-B Paseo del Pueblo Norte. & 575/758-1226. Main courses $6.50-$15. No credit cards. Tues-Sun
7am-4pm (3pm in winter). In summer, call to see if the chef is serving dinner.
8
Lula's Kids AMERICAN/LIGHT FARE A few blocks south of the plaza, this
new deli is run by the same folks as the excellent Taos Pizza Out Back (see above), and
offers gourmet soups and sandwiches and a select few diner-style meals between sun-
colored walls, as well as meals to go. Most of the tables here, tall and glass, with stools,
don't quite match the comfort level of the food, so diners tend to grab the few regular
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