Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
195
Many people come to Chimayo to visit
El Santuario de Nuestro Señor de Esquipu-
las
(the Shrine of Our Lord of Esquipulas)
(
&
505/351-4360;
holyfamily@
cybermesa.com), better known simply as “El Santuario de Chimayo.” Ascribed with
miraculous powers of healing, this church has attracted thousands of pilgrims since its
construction in 1814-16. Up to 30,000 people participate in the annual Good Friday
pilgrimage, many of them walking from as far away as Albuquerque.
Although only the earth in the anteroom beside the altar is presumed to have the gift
of healing powers, the entire shrine radiates true serenity. A National Historic Landmark,
the church has five beautiful
reredos
(panels of sacred paintings)—one behind the main
altar and two on each side of the nave. The Santuario is open daily March to September
9am to 6pm, and October to February 9am to 5pm. Please remember that this is a place
of worship, so quiet is always appreciated.
A good place to stop for a quick bite,
Leona's Restaurante de Chimayo
(
&
505/351-
4569
) is right next door to the Santuario de Chimayo. Leona herself presides over this
little taco and burrito stand with plastic tables inside and, during warm months, out.
Burritos and soft tacos made with chicken, beef, or veggie-style with beans will definitely
tide you over en route to Taos or Santa Fe. Open Thursday through Monday 11am to
5pm.
Where to Stay
Casa Escondida
On the outskirts of Chimayo, this inn offers a lovely retreat and
a good home base for exploring the Sangre de Cristo Mountains and their many soulful
farming villages. This hacienda-feeling place has a cozy living room with a large kiva
fireplace. Decor is simple and classic, with Mission-style furniture lending a colonial feel.
The breakfast room is a sunny atrium with French doors that open out in summer to a
grassy yard spotted with apricot trees. The rooms are varied; all my favorites are within
the main house. The Sun Room catches all that passionate northern New Mexico sun
upon its red brick floors and on its private flagstone patio as well; it has an elegant feel
and connects with a smaller room, so it's a good choice for families. The Vista is on the
second story. Its dormer windows give it an uniquely shaped roofline. It has a wrought-
iron queen-size bed as well a twin, and it opens out onto a large deck offering spectacular
sunset views. The casita adjacent to the main house has a kiva fireplace, a stove, and a
minifridge, as well as nice meadow views.
P.O. Box 142, Chimayo, NM 87522.
&
800/643-7201
or 505/351-4805. Fax 505/351-2575. www.
casaescondida.com. 8 units. $95-$155 double. Rates include full breakfast. MC, V. Pets welcome in 4
rooms for a small fee; prearrangement required.
Amenities:
Jacuzzi.
Where to Dine
Restaurante Rancho de Chimayo
NEW MEXICAN For as long as I can
remember, my family and many of my friends' families have scheduled trips into north-
ern New Mexico to coincide with lunch or dinner at this fun restaurant. In an adobe
home built by Hermenegildo Jaramillo in the 1880s, it's now run as a restaurant by his
descendants. Unfortunately, over the years the restaurant has become so famous that tour
buses now stop here. However, the food has suffered only a little. In the warmer months,
request to dine on the terraced patio. During winter, you'll be seated in one of a number
of cozy rooms with thick viga ceilings. The food is native New Mexican, prepared from
generations-old Jaramillo family recipes. You can't go wrong with the enchiladas, served
layered, northern New Mexico style, rather than rolled. For variety you might want to
7
