Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
103
to July. However, most kachina dances are closed to the non-Hopi public. Social dances
(usually open to the public) are held August through February. If you're on the reserva-
tion during these months, ask if any dances are taking place. Who knows? You might get
lucky. Snake Dances (usually closed to the non-Hopi public) are held August through
December.
Kachinas,
whether in the form of dolls or masked dancers, are representative of the
spirits of everything from plants and animals to ancestors and sacred places. More than
300 kachinas appear on a regular basis in Hopi ceremonies, and another 200 appear
occasionally. The kachina spirits are said to live in the San Francisco Peaks to the south-
west and at Spring of the Shadows in the east. According to legend, the kachinas lived
with the Hopi long ago, but the Hopi people made the kachinas angry, causing them to
leave. Before departing, though, the kachinas taught the Hopi how to perform their
ceremonies.
Today, the kachina ceremonies, performed by men wearing elaborate costumes and
masks, serve several purposes. Most important, they bring clouds and rain to water the
all-important corn crop, but they also ensure health, happiness, long life, and harmony
in the universe. As part of the kachina ceremonies, dancers often bring carved wooden
kachina dolls to village children to introduce them to the various spirits.
The kachina season lasts from the winter solstice until shortly after the summer sol-
stice. The actual dates for dances are usually announced only shortly before the ceremo-
nies are to be held. Preparations for the dances take place inside kivas that are entered
from the roof by means of a ladder; the dances themselves are usually held in a village
square or street.
With ludicrous and sometimes lewd mimicry, clowns known as
koyemsi, koshares,
and
tsukus
entertain spectators between the dances, bringing a lighthearted counterpoint to
the very serious nature of the kachina dances. Non-Hopis attending dances have often
become the focus of attention for these clowns.
Despite the importance of the kachina dances, it is the
Snake Dance
that has captured
the attention of many non-Hopis. The Snake Dance involves the handling of poisonous
and nonpoisonous snakes alike. The ceremony takes place over 16 days, with the first 4
days dedicated to collecting snakes from the four cardinal directions. Later, footraces are
held from the bottom of the mesa to the top. On the last day of the ceremony, the actual
Snake Dance is performed. Men of the Snake Society form pairs of dancers—one to carry
the snake in his mouth and the other to distract the snake with an eagle feather. When
all the snakes have been danced around the plaza, they are rushed down to their homes
at the bottom of the mesa to carry the Hopi prayers for rain to the spirits of the under-
world.
Due to the disrespectful attitude of some past visitors, many ceremonies and dances
are now closed to non-Hopis. However, a couple of Hopi villages do allow visitors to
attend some of their dances. The best way to find out about attending dances is to con-
tact the
Hopi Cultural Preservation office
(see “Visitor Information,” above).
SHOPPING
Most visitors come to the reservation to shop for Hopi crafts. Across the reservation,
dozens of small shops sell crafts and jewelry of different quality, and some homes, espe-
cially at the foot of First Mesa, have signs indicating that they sell crafts. Shops often sell
the work of only a few individuals, so you should stop at several to get an idea of the
variety of work available. Also, if you tour Walpi or wander around in Oraibi, you will
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