Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Hovenweep National Monument
Preserving some of the most striking and isolated archaeological sites in the Four Corners
area, this national monument straddles the Colorado-Utah border, 40 miles west of
Cortez.
Hovenweep is the Ute word for “deserted valley,” appropriate because its inhabitants
apparently left around 1300. The monument contains six separate sites, and is noted for
mysterious, 20-foot-high sandstone towers, some square, others oval, circular, or
D-shaped. Archaeologists have suggested their possible function as everything from
guard or signal towers, celestial observatories, and ceremonial structures to water towers
or granaries.
A ranger station, with exhibits, restrooms, and drinking water, is located at the Square
Tower Site , in the Utah section of the monument, the most impressive and best
preserved of the sites. The Hovenweep Campground, which contains 28 sites, is open
year-round. Sites are fairly small—most appropriate for tents or small pickup-truck
campers—but a few sites can accommodate RVs up to 36 feet long. The campground has
flush toilets, drinking water, picnic tables, and fire pits, but no showers or RV hookups.
Cost is $10 per night; reservations are not accepted, but the campground rarely fills.
From Cortez, take US 160 south to C.R. G (McElmo Canyon Rd.), and follow signs
into Utah and the monument. The other five sites are difficult to find, and you'll need
to obtain detailed driving directions and check on current road conditions before setting
out. Summer temperatures can reach over 100°F (38°C), and water supplies are lim-
ited—so take your own and carry a canteen, even on short walks. Bug repellent is
advised, as gnats can be a nuisance in late spring.
The visitor center/ranger station is open daily 8am to 6pm from April through Sep-
tember and from 8am to 5pm the rest of the year; it's closed New Year's Day, Thanksgiv-
ing, and Christmas. Admission for up to a week costs $6 per vehicle or $3 per person on
bike or foot. For advance information, contact Hovenweep National Monument,
McElmo Route, Cortez, CO 81321 ( & 970/562-4282; www.nps.gov/hove).
WHERE TO STAY
Lodging in Cortez is generally adequate but not very exciting, although you probably will
just use Cortez as a base for exploring the area, so this may not matter. We recommend
that you stay in your favorite chain. Summer is the busy season here, and that's when
you'll pay the highest rates. Among those offering clean, comfortable, and reasonably
priced rooms (ranging from about $65-$135 double) in Cortez (zip code 81321) are
Best Western Turquoise Inn & Suites, 535 E. Main St. ( & 800/547-3376 or 970/565-
3778); Comfort Inn, 2321 E. Main St. ( & 800/424-6423 or 970/565-3400); Econo
Lodge, 2020 E. Main St. ( & 800/553-2666 or 970/565-3474); Holiday Inn Express,
2121 E. Main St. ( & 888/465-4329 or 970/565-6000); and Super 8, 505 E. Main St.
( & 800/800-8000 or 970/565-8888). Room tax adds about 8% to lodging bills.
WHERE TO DINE
Homesteaders Restaurant AMERICAN/MEXICAN A rustic, Old West
atmosphere pervades this popular family restaurant, which is decorated with historic
photos and memorabilia. The menu has a good selection of home-style American basics,
such as burgers, T-bones, and top sirloins. Those wanting a bit more zip might try the
Southwestern steak—top sirloin smothered with salsa, green chile, and cheese. We also
suggest the barbecued baby back ribs and the old-fashioned dinners, such as thin-sliced
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