Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
around mid-November to mid-June, but the area is still popular for winter sports, and ac-
cessible by cross-country skiing and snowshoeing.
Congratulations are in order for travelers who make it all the way to the
Warner Moun-
tains
. This spur of the Cascade Range in the east of the Modoc National Forest is probably
the least-visited range in California. With extremely changeable weather, it's also not so
hospitable; there have been snowstorms here in every season of the year. The range divides
into the North Warners and South Warners at
Cedar Pass
(elevation 6305ft), east of Altur-
as. Remote
Cedar Pass Snow Park
( 530-233-3323; all day T-bar adult/child under 6yr/
6-18yr $15/5/12, all-day rope tow $5; 10am-4pm Sat, Sun & holidays during ski season)
offers
downhill and cross-country skiing. The majestic
South Warner Wilderness
contains 77
miles of hiking and riding trails. The best time to use them is from July to mid-October.
Maps, campfire permits and information are all available at the
Modoc National
Forest supervisor's headquarters
(
530-233-5811; 800 W 12th St;
8am-5pm Mon-Fri)
in
Alturas.
If you are heading east into Nevada from the forest, you'll pass through
Alturas
, the
fairly uninspiring seat of Modoc County. The town was founded by the Dorris family in
1874 as a supply point for travelers, and it serves the same function today, providing basic
services, motels and family-style restaurants. The best place to stay in town (which won't
cost much more than the motels) is the newly re-opened, turn-of-the-century and beauti-
fully period-decorated
Niles Hotel
(
530-233-3773;
www.nileshotel.com
; 304 S Main St, Altur-
as; r from $80;
)
, which also has a restaurant where the tables are lit by oil lamps.
WEST OF I-5
The wilderness west of I-5 is right in the sweet spot: here are some of the most rugged
towns and seductive wilderness areas in the entire state of California - just difficult
enough to reach to discourage big crowds.
The
Trinity Scenic Byway
(Hwy 299) winds spectacularly along the Trinity River and
beneath towering cliffs as it makes its way from the plains of Redding to the coastal red-
wood forests around Arcata. It provides a chance to cut through some of the northern
mountains' most pristine wilderness and passes through the vibrant Gold Rush town of
Weaverville.
Heavenly Hwy 3 (a highly recommended - although slower and windier - alternative
route to I-5) heads north from Weaverville. This mountain byway transports you through
