Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
SLOW: DESERT TORTOISE X-ING
The Mojave is the home of the desert tortoise, which can live for up to 80 years, munch-
ing on wildflowers and grasses. Its canteen-like bladder allows it to go for up to a year
without drinking. Using its strong hind legs, it burrows to escape the summer heat and
freezing winter temperatures, and also to lay eggs. The sex of the hatchlings is determin-
ed by temperature: cooler for males, hotter for females.
Disease and shrinking habitat have decimated the desert tortoise population. They do
like to rest in the shade under parked cars (take a quick look around before just driving
away), and are often hit by off-road drivers. If you see a tortoise in trouble (eg stranded in
the middle of a road), call a ranger.
It's illegal to pick one up or even approach too closely, and for good reason: a frightened
tortoise may urinate on a perceived attacker, possibly dying of dehydration before the
next rains come.
MOJAVE NATIONAL PRESERVE
If you're on a quest for the 'middle of nowhere,' you'll find it in the wilderness of the Mo-
jave National Preserve ( GOOGLE MAP ; 760-252-6100; www.nps.gov/moja ) , a
1.6-million-acre jumble of sand dunes, Joshua trees, volcanic cinder cones, and habitats
for bighorn sheep, desert tortoises, jackrabbits and coyotes. Solitude and serenity are the
big draws. Daytime temperatures hover above 100°F (37°C) during summer, then hang
around 50°F (10°C) in winter, when snowstorms are not unheard of. Strong winds will
practically knock you over in spring and fall. No gas is available within the preserve.
Sights & Activities
You can spend an entire day or just a few hours driving around the preserve, taking in its
sights and exploring some of them on foot.
Cima Dome MOUNTAIN
Visible to the south from I-15, Cima Dome is a 1500ft hunk of granite spiked with volcan-
ic cinder cones and crusty outcrops of basalt left by lava. Its slopes are smothered in
Joshua trees that collectively make up the largest such forest in the world. For close-ups,
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