Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Though probably one for racing buffs only, you can also visit the Hong Kong Racing Mu-
seum, which has eight galleries and a cinema showcasing celebrated trainers, jockeys and
horseflesh, and key races over the past 150 years. The most important event in the history of
the Happy Valley Racecourse - individual winnings notwithstanding - was the huge fire in
1918 that killed hundreds of people. Many of the victims were buried in the cemeteries sur-
rounding the track.
VICKIE'S ANGRY UNCLES
Victoria Park has always been associated with freedom of expression, a reputation
owed mainly to the candlelight vigil which takes place here on 4 June, but also to the
current affairs debate 'City Forum' which turns it into a mini Hyde Park every Sunday.
Spanning two MTR stations and with multiple entrances, the park provides a leafy
detour and short cut for many locals. Among the regulars are a group of retired, pro-
communist old men who during 'City Forum' on Sundays (noon to 1pm), would hang
out near the venue and holler against speechifying pro-democracy politicians to
drown them out.
These men came to be known as the 'Uncles of Victoria Park' (), but the term has
since evolved to include any politically minded old man with a gripe. And Hong Kong
certainly has no shortage of these.
Island East
MARKET
CHUN YEUNG STREET MARKET
Hop on an eastbound tram, and past Fortress Hill you'll turn into an old narrow street teem-
ing with market stalls and old tenement buildings. This is the famous Chun Yeung Street
Market, and at 5pm it's so busy you wonder why no one ever got hit by the tram.
Flanking the tram tracks are vegetable stalls, meat vendors and stores selling foodstuff
from Fújiàn, such as pig intestines stuffed with egg and all kinds of meat balls. North Point
has a huge Fujianese community, and you'll hear their dialect spoken on Chun Yeung St.
As the tram turns the corner into King's Rd, you'll pass the nondescript
Wah Fung
Chinese Department Store
. Once Hong Kong's largest Chinese department store, its
rooftop served as a hideout for underground communists during the 1967 riots.
