MEDITERRANEAN ISLANDS - Clean Breaks: 500 New Ways to See the World - page 80

106 walk in The riserVa dello
zinGaro, siCily

to one of Europe's
few remaining
primary forests.
From the
natural spring
at Sorgente Su
Gologone you
can walk into
the Lanaittu
Valley and up
to a Bronze-
Age Nuraghic
village tucked into a cave near the top of Tiscali
Mountain.
It's possible to find your way up to the top on
your own, but you can get hopelessly lost among
the maze of confusing pathways, so it's better to
hire a guide through the Association for Tourist
Services Culture and Environment in Orgosolo.
These local guides can also take you to meet
shepherds in the mountains, where you'll share
in an al fresco lunch of boiled sheep with patat'a
perras, roasted pork, bread, salami and their
own cheese and local wine.
There are several good converted farmhouses
on the slip road from Oliena to Su Gologone.
Agrituristica Guthiddai is excellent value for
money and is run by the English-speaking
daughters of a farmer who still makes wine and
olive oil on the estate. There are ten rooms with
terraces where you can look out over the sheer
rock face of the Supramonte plateau. Expect the
kind of food that has won Sardinia many culinary
admirers, including fresh ravioli, lamb pot roast
and pork with fresh seasonal vegetables, all
washed down with the owner's delicious red wine.

The Riserva dello Zingaro in the northwest
of Sicily (about an hour from Palermo) is the
island's first nature reserve, established to
protect a 7km stretch of coastline that's home to
numerous endemic flora and fauna. Most people
come to the reserve for the isolated beaches,
but if you're feeling energetic there are lots
of walks inland, including several strenuous
routes in a mountainous section. It's also a
birders' paradise: 39 species nest and mate here,
including bunting, Greek partridge, blue rock
thrush and one of the last remaining pairs of
Bonelli's eagles.
There are two entrances - in the north at San
Vito Lo Capo and in the south at Scopello. Vehicles
(and dogs) are banned from the reserve so the only
way in is on foot; there's a small entrance fee of # 3
(pay in cash at the gates). Given the proximity to
Palermo, it's a popular day-trip from the capital
and is best avoided on summer weekends, but
go mid-week or out of season and you'll have
the place to yourself. Thankfully the reserve's
protected status has kept the developers at bay
and the reserve has become a life-saver for the
local environment. That's good for the wildlife, of
course, but it's also excellent value for anyone who
enjoys a hearty walk to a pristine beach.

Agrituristica Guthiddai and
the spectacular rock face of
the Supramonte Plateau

Need to know An information hut at the Scopello
entrance provides a free basic map showing
the beaches and main walking routes. There
is nowhere to fill up with water in the reserve
so take plenty with you; the hut sells snacks
and cold drinks. For details about the reserve's
history, wildlife and walking itineraries see W www.
riservazingaro.it (Italian only).

Need to know For walking itineraries, tours,
information on hiring a guide and having lunch
with shepherds (spring and summer only; booking
essential) see W www.supramonte.it. Agrituristica
Guthiddai: W www.agriturismoguthiddai.com;
T [phone]. It is 7km east of Oliena,
which has good public transport links. For details
of travelling around Sardinia without a car see
W www.getaroundsardinia.com.

107 lunCh wiTh shepherds in
sardinia

If you want to escape the heat of Sardinia's coast
then head for the Supramonte Mountains, home