Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
at W www.biscay-dolphin.org.uk - any tickets sold
through this link will earn money for the Biscay
Dolphin Research Programme. For prices and
bookings of ferries to Santander visit W www.
brittany-ferries.co.uk; T +44 (0)871 244 0744 (You
can volunteer to spot cetacea on these crossings,
see W www.orca.org.uk). From both Santander
and Bilbao there are good onward connections
throughout Spain by bus ( W www.alsa.es) and train
( W www.renfe.es).
090 SPOT whaleS and dOlPhInS
On BOaRd The FeRRY TO SPaIn
From the deck of the Pride of Bilbao ferry it's
not unusual to see striped, Risso's and bottlenose
dolphins playing in the bow wave. Look further
out to sea and you might spot any of various
species of whale: fin, pilot, minke, Cuvier's
beaked or even the enormous blue whale.
The Bay of Biscay is one of the best places in
Europe to see whales and dolphins: so good, in
fact, that a team of marine scientists from the
Biscay Dolphin Research Programme boards
the ferry every time it sails from Portsmouth
to Bilbao in northern Spain. Since 1995, over
21 species have been recorded in these waters
(more than a quarter of the world's total). On
August 10 2007, 162 fin whales were spotted
during just one trip.
On deck, a wildlife officer provides free
presentations and inside the boat - in the Junior
Crew Club - he gives a talk for children. He'll
explain how different species are associated
with different areas of the crossing; the common
dolphins, for instance, spend their winters off
the Brittany peninsula, while the beaked whale
is often seen over the submarine canyons off
Spain's north coast. And once you've enjoyed
the natural history spectacle, you can disappear
into the belly of the boat for all the usual
entertainment: two casinos, a gym, saunas and a
beauty salon as well as en-suite cabins.
The voyage leaves Portsmouth at 9.15pm
and arrives in Bilbao at 8am two days later.
Alternatively, you can cross the Bay of Biscay on
a weekly service from Portsmouth to Santander
(24hr) or from Plymouth to Santander (20hr). By
the time you arrive, you'll probably have spotted
some whales, enjoyed a range of onboard services
and had a good rest. It may just take your mind
off the pitch and roll.
091 TOmORROw'S TOuRISm TOdaY
In The SwISS alPS
For a glimpse of how ski accommodation might
look in the future, check out Whitepod, an
isolated resort at an altitude of 1600m, tucked
beneath the Dents du Midi above the Swiss
alpine town of Les Cerniers. This low-impact, hi-
tech camp consists of domed “pods” made out of
canvas and steel resembling roughly made igloos
on wooden platforms. Each of the “expedition”
pods has just one room with a double bed, thick
duvet, washbasin, oil lamp, a wood-burning stove
and a panoramic view of the alpine peaks. The
larger “pavilion” pods have a separate bedroom
on a mezzanine level.
If you can leave the super-insulated snug
interior, you can ski over to a 600m private
run (with two drag lifts) to practise your turns,
or strap on a pair of snow-shoes and explore
kilometres of virgin snow in off-piste woodland
trails, then return for a soak in the sauna
followed by dinner in the wooden chalet.
Need to know Trains go from Paris Gare du
Lyon (via Geneva or Lausanne) to Aigle ( W www.
raileurope.co.uk; T +44 (0) 844 848 4070) where
you can be collected, by arrangement. Groups can
stay in the Alpage de Chindonne, a large refuge
near the top of the ski run at 1800m. It sleeps sixty
(in dorms) and includes access to the Whitepod
activities (including yoga and gym) and ski run.
For rates, reservations and details of activities see
W www.whitepod.com; T +41 (0) 244 713 838.
Need to know Bikes can be taken on board
ferries for an extra charge. For ferries from
Portsmouth to Bilbao follow the link to P&O Ferries
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