The Indian Subcontinent - Clean Breaks: 500 New Ways to See the World - page 317

428 river liFe in Kerala

To really discover the heart of Kerala, you
need to leave the beach, jump off the houseboat
or troop down from the hills to the banks of
the River Nila, where a variety of traditional
activities are on offer with The Blue Yonder.
You could spend a day river-rafting with former
smugglers, help out at an elephant rehabilitation
centre or admire the spectacular kicks and dives
of kalari payattu , Kerala's traditional martial
art. The Blue Yonder works with local artisans
and communities to promote and preserve their
culture; as such they encourage you to learn
how to play Keralan musical instruments, visit
villages along the river and watch traditional
kathakali (theatre) and mohiniyattam (dance).
The accommodation is also much more than just
a place to lay your head - it's an integral part
of the experience, especially if you opt for the
homestay option with local families in preference
to a stay at River Retreat, a former summer
palace of the Maharaja of Cochin. You could stay
with Praveen, retired early from the Merchant
Navy to run a homestay with his wife - they
both also manage the local school. Or with the
Namboodris in their calm and elegant 200-year-
old home. Pillars of their local rural community,
the Namboodris are well-travelled and erudite
companions (he's a water engineer and expert
on international development; she's an excellent
guide to India's spiritual traditions). You're free to
wander round their beautiful, herb-filled garden
and say hello to the resident - and cherished
- cow. In the evenings, you'll dine on delicious,
home-grown vegetarian food while conversation
drifts easily between the relevance of the Vedas
to the adventures of the Namboodris' daughter
- India's first female elephant trainer - and her
husband, a snake priest.

Need to know Contact The Blue Yonder ( W www.
theblueyonder.com; T [phone]) to
customize your trip. The Blue Yonder runs similar
community-focused trips throughout India; for
further details see the website.

(From top) Kerala scenes: Kathakali performance; practising kalari payattu; peppercorns growing
in the sun