Southeast Asia - Clean Breaks: 500 New Ways to See the World - page 305

Into the heart of Borneo

The island of Borneo - which is divided between Malaysia, Indonesia and Brunei - is
home to some of the world's best diving sites, along with a huge variety of plants, birds and
mammals, some unique to the country. Yet it is also the land of the super-logger and oil-
palm plantations that are eradicating the island's natural forests. Ecotourism is one of few
economic activities that can make a convincing case for protecting these habitats while
supporting indigenous communities. The following five experiences get under the skin of
Borneo and demonstrate that its superb natural assets are worth more alive than felled.

413 On the rafflesia trail in Sabah,
Malaysia
Sabah's Rafflesia Forest Reserve exists to protect
the rafflesia - the world's largest flower. The
quest to find
this rare plant
begins in Kota
Kinabalu, where
you can take a
bus upwards of
1500m through
thick pockets of
Bornean mist to
the Tambunan
waterfall. Then
the trail leads
into the forest;
scrambling
through the
trees, stepping
round enormous
buttresses and
over fallen logs
you come to a
clearing, and
there it is, lying
on the ground in
splendid isolation:
the unmistakable blood red bloom, spotted with
white markings - a lone and beautiful rafflesia.

1hr). For more information about visiting the centre
and guided tours contact the centre on T +62 (0)
8889 8500 or see W www.sabahtourism.com.

Rafflesia flower

414 Turtle watching in Sabah,
Malaysia
When you see a turtle hatchling take its first steps
towards the sea it becomes instantly clear what
conservation is all about. You can witness this
remarkable sight at the Turtle Islands National
Park, which is made up of three small islands
(Selingan, Bakkungan Kecil and Gulisan) in the
Sulu Sea off the east coast of Sabah. Visitors may
only stay on Selingan (numbers are limited to 38
per night divided between three chalets) though
you can visit the two other islands during the day.
At night, a ranger will take you to watch green
turtles nesting on the beach and in the morning
you'll get the privileged chance to see their young
being released into the sea.

Need to know The egg-laying season for turtles is
between July and October. All accommodation has
to be booked through Crystal Quest: E cquest@
tm.net.my; T [phone]. For entrance fees
see W www.sabahparks.org.my.

415 Miso Walai Homestay, Sabah,
Malaysia
Ecotourism is a much-bandied term in Borneo,
but this place fits the bill perfectly. Stay with a
local host family in one of four villages in Batu
Puteh Community, located in the wetlands of

Need to know Take the bus from Kota Kinabalu to
The Rafflesia Information Centre at Tambunan (about