Southeast Asia - Clean Breaks: 500 New Ways to See the World - page 301

407 Birdwatching at
kingfishEr EcolodgE, laos

408 visit a khmU villagE, laos

But for the Mekong River on whose banks it
stands, the village of Yoi Hai is cut off from the
world, with no road cut through the dense jungle
that surrounds it. Living here, surrounded by
the cloud-covered heights of the hills, are the
Khmu - an animist tribe who worship spirits in
the trees and rocks that surround them. Until
recently the population was even more isolated,
but in 2000 the government decreed that they,
and all the other hill tribes, had to form new
towns on lower ground, partly in a bid to stamp
out the opium trade and partly to improve access
to healthcare and education. However, many
tribal peoples have struggled to adapt to these
more urban communities, with alcoholism and
drug abuse on the increase.
Thanks to their relationship with the nearby
Kamu Lodge, however, the future doesn't
look quite so bleak for the Khmu. The lodge
- comprising twenty comfortable two-person
safari tents and a thatched pagoda restaurant
topped with solar panels - employs staff from
local communities, is responsible for building a
school and also pays a monthly community fund.
You'll get the chance to meet the people whom
the lodge is helping - they will show you round
the village, teach you how to cast a net into the
river or how to pan in its waters for gold.
Lit gently by the flickering of paraffin lamps,
night at the lodge is accompanied by crickets
singing and the earthy croak of frogs - few
places feel this remote. Staying here, you'll
glimpse a little bit of this wonderful place,
which, thanks to the efforts of Kamu Lodge, the
people of Yoi Hai are still able to call home.

Situated in the fertile northern wetlands of
a conservation area in Champasak Province,
Kingfisher Ecolodge blends perfectly with the
natural environment. Standing high on stilts, its
six bungalows' spiky wooden roofs are enveloped
in lush foliage. Each is simply equipped and
solar-powered, but their best feature is the
enormous glass windows: peering out over
the emerald expanse from your little wooden
island, the sense of space and distance is almost
overwhelming.

Pavillion at Wat Phou temple;
statue at Wat Phou temple

Close to the vibrant town
of Pakse, the spectacular
waterfalls of the Bolaven
Plateau and the Khmer
ruins of Wat Phou,
Kingfisher is a good base
for excursions. And with
opportunities nearby to
go mountain biking and
birdwatching, there's little
time to be bored. Although
it would be completely
understandable if you'd
rather tuck into the home-
made cakes in the lodge's
restaurant, sit back and soak
up the peace and quiet.

Need to know Kingfisher
Ecolodge can be reached
by taxi or public bus from
Pakse's southern bus station
(Lak Pet station), around
60km away. Five percent
of income from activities is
added to a fund that supports
the local primary school. For
details of accommodation,
activities, rates and
booking see W www.
kingfisherecolodge.com; T
[phone].

Need to know Kamu Lodge's boat leaves daily at
8.30am from Luang Prabang (arriving 12.30pm).
From Pak Beng, you'll need to come by public
boat, which the lodge can help arrange. For further
details, including rates and booking, see W www.
kamulodge.com; T [phone]