Southeast Asia - Clean Breaks: 500 New Ways to See the World - page 297

399 canoE thE Ba BE lakEs,
viEtnam

Be means “three seas” - a reference to the three
natural lakes that spread over an area 7km long
and 1km wide - and three-day boat trips on this
wide expanse of water typically stop by caves
and waterfalls, and include a stay in the homes
of the Tay people who live beside the lake. The
Tay, most of whom are farmers or fishermen,
live in houses on stilts perched over the edge of
the water - and it's in one of these that you'll
eat and sleep, looking out over the bamboo-
lined lake as fishermen pass by at dusk in their
wooden canoes.

As your guide paddles out of the dim, stalagtite-
filled cave and onto the shimmering lake,
the air fills with the roar of the distant Dau
Dang waterfall. On all sides the tree-covered
limestone cliffs loom overhead, their dense
vegetation seeming to merge into the jade-
coloured water. You're a long way north of
Hanoi and it feels like it.
Canoeing on the tranquil Ba Be Lakes with
Footprints Vietnam (an operator staffed by local
Vietnamese that works directly with the villages
you visit) is a nature retreat like few others. Ba

Need to know The best time to go is September
to April. The lakes are around six hours' drive
from Hanoi, though Footprints Vietnam and other
operators will drive you from the capital. For details
of tours and rates see W www.footprintsvietnam.
com; T [phone].

Paddling towards the cave at
Ba Be Lakes; Common lionfish

400 divE at BUnakEn,
indonEsia

No one's really sure how many fish dwell in the
gin-clear waters of Bunaken Marine Reserve in
the north of the Sulawesi archipelago. It's probably
more than 2500 different species, but the number
keeps changing as more are discovered. Whatever
the exact amount, with up to 45m visibility on a
clear day this is one of the best places to dive not
just in Indonesia, but the whole world.
And each year it gets a bit more beautiful.
That's partly because the 890 square-kilometre
reserve - which is spread over five small islands
- is using money raised from entrance fees to
end damaging practices such as coral mining and
blast-fishing. Also, because the reserve employs
local villagers to clean up the reefs and beaches
and guard them from trespassers, live coral cover
is now increasing by around five percent a year.
Most of the reserve's accommodation - mainly
basic homestays - is on Bunaken Island. If
you're after a little more luxury, head for the
nearby island of Siladen and the Siladen Resort
and Spa, with fifteen stylish villas, its own dive