South America - Clean Breaks: 500 New Ways to See the World - page 252

After a breathless climb, spurred on by
anticipation and tour group camaraderie,
you arrive at a series of terraces marking
the start of the lost city of Teyuna. Not
all of the terraces have been uncovered
and excavations are still in progress but
the main terrace, which once belonged to
the head shaman, is in full view in all its
verdant glory. It is thought the Tayrona
people lived in this area for around eight
hundred years before the arrival of the
Spanish and their devastating diseases.
Intriguingly, the descendants of Teyuna,
the local Arhuaca, Kogui and Sanká tribes,
knew of the city's existence all along, but
kept quiet.
Perhaps inevitably, this beautiful region
is still home to cocaine production and all
its associated problems. Not to mention
a history of violence between right-wing
paramilitaries and Marxist guerrillas for
whom the impenetrable jungle provided
the perfect hideout. But nowadays a heavy
military presence along with impeccably
organized tours ensures that all visitors
need worry about are mosquito bites,
blisters and the odd wild pig. Indeed, this
is another example of tourism providing a
desperately needed alternative source of
income for the local community, an issue
perhaps more pertinent to Colombia than
anywhere else.

Need to know Tours depart regularly from
Taganga or Santa Marta. The price of the
six-day, five-night tour is COP550,000
(US$250), including transport, food,
accommodation (hammocks), a guide and
permits. Porters and mules carry cooking
materials but hikers are expected to carry
their clothes and other supplies. Sturdy
walking shoes, strong mosquito repellent and
water purification tablets are essential. For
itineraries and rates see W www.sierratours-
trekking.com (Spanish only) or E info@
sierratours-trekking.com for more details.

Crossing the river Buritaca; Terraces once home to the head shaman of Teyuna