Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
AlternAtive CAribbeAn beAChes
The Caribbean idyll of a sandy beach backed by coconut palms is not hard to find: great
swathes of spectacular beaches are commonplace throughout the islands, from Aruba
to the Virgin Islands. Finding desert-island solitude, however, is trickier. Most of the best
stretches of coastline on the popular islands have been developed to some degree with
hotels, bars and motorized watersports. But there are places - still - where you can
find yourself alone; you just have to know where to look. Here are three of our favourite
alternative beaches.
319 Rosalie Bay, Dominica
Dominica isn't known for its beaches: most
visitors come here to hike into the island's dense
jungle and visit towering waterfalls and emerald
pools. Yet there are some lovely beaches so long
as you're prepared to go off the beaten track.
One of the most secluded is Rosalie Bay on the
southeast coast: a wide, sweeping beach, backed
by lush foliage, where the sand is black rather
than golden - a consequence of the island's age-
old volcanic activity. It faces the Atlantic so the
waves are rougher than on the Caribbean coast,
but the shore has a long shallow section that's
ideal for a quick dip.
About a kilometre inland from the beach
is Rosalie Forest Ecolodge. The camp is the
brainchild of Jem Winston, an ex-London
cabbie who fell in love with Dominica while
backpacking and spent his twenties saving up
to return to build his little patch of paradise. He
learned the basics at a couple of workshops at
the Centre for Alternative Technology in Wales
(see p.20) and now provides guests with a choice
of places to stay in Rosalie forest, including a
solar-powered cottage, several wind-powered
treehouses and two Mwena Carib Indian
jungle cabins. Among a string of community-
based initiatives, Jem organizes workshops on
“sustainable living” and, with NGO funding,
provides loans for locals to set up eco-friendly
places of the future.
318 Praslin Island, St Lucia
Small is beautiful. This tiny white-sand beach
on Praslin Island on the east coast of St Lucia is
perfect for a swim or perhaps a little wade before
a picnic lunch. Your only company is likely to be
the occasional bird and a few zandoli tè (the blue
whiptail lizard found only on Praslin Island and
Maria Island). The only access is by boat - about
10min from Praslin village (US$8 per person). If
you can stir yourself from the idyll, nearby is the
Frigate Islands Nature Reserve and just north,
the Eastern Nature Trail - where you can go on
a guided trail along the craggy coast.
Need to know
The boat to Praslin Island costs
US$8 per person. A guided walk on the Eastern
Nature Trail costs US$12 per person, plus an
additional shared US$16 guide fee for groups. For
reservations contact Eastern Tours (
T
+758 455
3182).
Riding in St Lucia
Need to know
For inter-island ferry services
between Dominica and St Lucia, Martinique and
Guadeloupe see p.227. Buses go from Roseau
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