Mexico, Central America and the Caribbean - Clean Breaks: 500 New Ways to See the World - page 228

Access to many of Dominica's natural
attractions (such as Middleham Falls and the
Emerald Pool) is being improved as part of the
government's strategy to develop ecotourism on
the island. For example, the formerly arduous
trek up to the Boiling Lake is now much less of
a slog thanks to the upgrading of the path en
route to the lake through the sulphurous, moss-
and lichen-covered Valley of Desolation.
Guided walks into the jungle are organized
from Papillote, a locally run guesthouse in
the south of the island, high up in the forest-
covered Roseau Valley. Papillote was the first
eco-inn on the island and is known throughout
the Caribbean for its tropical garden nurtured
by the owner, Anne Jno Baptiste, who over the
past 25 years has developed an impressive
collection of tree ferns, tropical fruits and
orchids. The food is local and fresh, and there
is the genuinely friendly touch that defines
Dominica. The rooms range from simple doubles
to much larger suites with private verandas
overlooking the valley. There are also great
views of the rainforest from the dining-room
terrace, where the menu includes fruits from the
organic garden, Creole chicken and home-made
rum punch.
Fifteen minutes' walk away are the twin
waterfalls of Trafalgar Falls, below which there's
a natural bathing pool. And across the valley
at Ti Kwen Glo Cho, an organic farm, there are
hot-water tubs fed by bamboo pipes and sulphur-
mud pools. But for post-adventure pampering
to soothe the muscles, look no further than
Papillotte's own four hot pools fed by a constant
stream of volcanic mineral water from nearby
springs. After a full day's hiking in the rainforest
followed by a soak surrounded by lichen-covered
statues of dragons and fish, it's hard to make
any kind of comparison with the traditional
Caribbean beach holiday, but it's easy not to
worry too much about it.
Need to know For further info including
directions, rates and reservations see W www.
papillote.dm; T [phone].
Trafalgar Falls, Dominica