Mexico, Central America and the Caribbean - Clean Breaks: 500 New Ways to See the World - page 220

you see underwater, helping to build up a
global snapshot of the world's marine species
and providing valuable data for conservation
organizations. If you want to participate, you can
do so on Tobago, whose warm waters are home to
manta rays (especially in April and May), south
Atlantic coral (including one of the largest brain
corals in the world at Keliston Drain dive site)
and a variety of multicoloured tropical fish.
Tobago Dive Experience is a member of
Earthdive and runs dives chiefly off the
northeast coast of the island where there are
forty dive sites, all within a 5-20min boat ride
from the jetty in the fishing village of Speyside.
It's based at Manta Lodge, a colonial-style
beachside hotel with a training pool and dive
shop, a 5min truck ride from Speyside Bay. After
a day's diving, you can feast on salted fish in
the lodge's restaurant then move to the bar for
several varieties of local rum.
Divers in 119 countries have already joined
Earthdive. The recording process on its website
( W www.earthdive.com) is very simple: once
you've registered, choose where you dived
and tick off the fish and coral that you saw
from the list provided. It's especially useful to
record the key “indicator species” at the dive
site, whose absence can alert scientists to any
environmental pressures these species may be
suffering, such as pollution and overfishing. And
next time you dive, as well as following that
well-known diving adage “plan the dive and dive
the plan”, add “see it, log it, map it”.

retreat like few others. From Grenada itself it
takes two hours on the daily ferry, and when you
disembark at Hillsborough, a one-street town
that must rank as one of the world's smallest
and most laid-back capitals, you've still got a
30min bus ride to reach Kido. But it's worth it:
once there you're treated to a panoramic view
from your elevated balcony out over the sea
towards the atolls and reefs of Tobago Cays, with
animal cries and birdsong the only noises.
Accommodation-wise you have three options at
Kido. The Octopus House sleeps four and has
views out across the bay with a private set of
steps down to the sea. Alternatively the Villa,
tucked away amongst the foliage on a hill, is
ideal for a family looking to get even further
away from it all. Perhaps the most fun is the
Pagoda, which sleeps up to ten and is popular
with volunteers - with its trellised walls open
to the elements your nights are cooled by the
breezes coming up off the sea. Both the Pagoda
and the Villa have their own kitchens, though
guests are welcome to take advantage of the
onsite restaurant serving vegetarian Italian and
West Indian food.
Kido is a working wildlife research station and
rescue sanctuary, and during the turtle-nesting
season volunteers help the researchers between
March and October, by tagging newborns,
marking nests or patrolling the beaches by
night. The station also makes a great base
to explore the island's interior by foot or on
mountain bike, on the lookout for such creatures
as the red-legged tortoise or tree boa. Some of
the best fauna and flora is underwater however,
and Kido has its own catamaran to explore the
waters around Carriacou, which are frequented
by humpback whales from December to April
and dolphins throughout the year.

Need to know For info on dive courses, prices
and bookings see W www.tobagodiveexperience.
com; T [phone]. For activities, prices and
room reservations at Manta Lodge see W www.
mantalodge.com; T [phone].

287 hideaway in the hills at
Kido, grenada

Need to know The Osprey ferry ( W www.
ospreylines.com) travels from St George in
Grenada to Carriacou twice daily (and once a day
at the weekend). For details of guided ecotours,
rates and bookings see W www.kido-projects.com;
T [phone].

If you're willing to make the trek, Kido
Ecological Research Station, lost in the dense
forest of the island of Carriacou, is an escapist