Northern Africa and the Middle East - Clean Breaks: 500 New Ways to See the World - page 135

itself a “hospitality centre”, so
expect pots of mint tea on your
arrival, and jellabahs (long-sleeved
robes) and leather babouches
(traditional leather slippers) to slip
into. The rooms have been furnished
by Berber craftsmen using local
materials and range from basic
communal salons (often used by
school groups) to comfortable
private double rooms and one lavish,
three-bedroom apartment.
Guests come on day-trips from
the capital to dine on tagines on
the large rooftop terrace, from
where there are sweeping views
of the valley. But you'll need to
stay here for a few days to make the most of
the spectacular setting. You can hire a guide
and climb Mount Toubkal in a day, then return
to the hammam (steam bath) and dine in the
Kasbah's restaurant. Or try a four-hour trek to
Toubkal Lodge in the Berber village of Idissa.
Its three double rooms are similar in style to
the plush apartment at the Kasbah, and are
designed for just a handful of guests to use as a
base for day-hikes in the mountains or as part
of an overnight circular walking route from the
Kasbah du Toubkal. And if you don't fancy the
four-hour trek over the mountain pass from
the Kasbah to the village, you can ride in on
horseback or go by mountain bike.

The terrace at Kasbah du
Toubkal in the heart of the
Atlas Mountains

170 THE kASBAH du TouBkAl,
MoroCCo

On the drive up through the Imlil Valley into
the foothills of the Atlas Mountains, you have a
sense that you're going somewhere special. The
road passes rose-coloured adobe villages and
fields terraced with ancient irrigation channels
that nourish apple, cherry and walnut orchards.
Mules trot along the road carrying children,
women return from the fields with sacks of
wheat, and men congregate in small groups by
the roadside. As you swing around steep-sided
bends, you get glimpses of the looming massif at
the head of the valley, and by the time you reach
the mountain village of Imlil - just 65km from
Marrakesh - you know you're in another world.
The light is brighter, the air thinner, the streets
empty and the jagged peaks resplendent against
the sky.
No wonder Martin Scorsese chose this setting
for Kundun , his film about the life of the Dalai
Lama. The grandeur and remoteness of the
Atlas Mountains is every bit as magnificent as
the Himalayas. Here, the Kasbah du Toubkal,
the former summer home of local ruler Caid
Souktani, is perched at 1800m in the shadow of
Morocco's highest peak, Mount Toubkal.
Run and staffed by Berbers, the Kasbah calls

Need to know Take a shared taxi or local bus
from Marrakesh to Asni then a local taxi from Asni
to Imli (about 2hr in total). Alternatively, book a
90min transfer with the Kasbah ( # 85 per car).
From Imlil it's a steep 15min walk (a mule will
carry your bags). The Kasbah does not stock
alcohol, though you can bring your own. For
prices, room reservations and booking transfers at
both the Kasbah and Toubkal Lodge see W www.
kasbahdutoubkal.com; T [phone]
204. A five percent tax on hotel invoices goes
to the Imlilillage Association, which funds local
community projects.