Eastern Europe and the Ae gean - Clean Breaks: 500 New Ways to See the World - page 108

latter can be somewhat eerie, as these islands
are still dotted with crumbling farmhouses and
deserted Soviet watchtowers, half-rusted by the
salty air. Covered in white gulls against a setting
sun, though, they make for a great photograph.

affects the surrounding land
(with a doctorate in beaver
behaviour, he's a pretty good
authority on the subject).
The beavers may be elusive,
but you can't miss the Hutsul
horses, a rare breed that the
ranch is working to protect.
One of the pleasures of staying
here is the chance to ride out on
them across the neighbouring
woods and fields. This is the
best way to get a glimpse of the
wildlife that lies in the forests.
You're unlikely to see more than
tracks of the bears, wolves and
lynx that live here, but there
is a good chance of spotting
European bison, roe deer and
various birds of prey.
By the time you're back at the
ranch you'll have worked up
quite an appetite. Good news,
then, that vegetarian meals
rustled up by Aga, sourced
from what's in the biodynamic
garden, are rather tasty. And
you can wash them down with
ten different home-made beers
and various fruit liqueurs. As
you nod off - suitably full - in
the total silence and darkness of
the park, it's difficult not to be
inspired by the way this lodge
its its environment so well.

Need to know As well as sea kayaking, Reimann
Retked offers rafting, snow-shoeing, bogwalking
and kicksledding tours. Tours start at Valkla Beach,
about one hour's drive from Tallinn. Accommodation
on overnight trips is in restored farmhouses. For full
details and prices, see W www.retked.ee; T +372
511 4099.

138 stay on an Eco ranch in
biEszczady national Park,
Poland

The view from the 12km-long ridge at Polonina
Wetlinska in the Bieszczady National Park
is an unbroken panorama of ancient forests
of pine, beech and oak stretching across lush
valleys and hills. The world here looks wild;
untouched by man. Some sensitive development
has been permitted here though, including the
construction of the Eco-Frontiers Ranch, a great
place to stay while exploring the area.
Designed by Andrezj Czech and his
girlfriend Aga, the ranch combines traditional
Carpathian building techniques with a modern
environmental philosophy. Located between
the villages of Michiniowiec and Lipie in an
area of remote wetlands, it is entirely off-grid;
power instead comes from wind turbines and
solar panels. Inside the main house the timber
rooms are cosily decorated, plus there's a lounge,
kitchen and library; a real haven when you come
in from the evening cold.
Beavers have been reintroduced to the land
surrounding the ranch, and as dusk sets guests
can walk out towards their dams, hoping for
a rare glimpse of these shy creatures. More
often you'll just get the chance to study their
handiwork, while Andrezj explains how it

Need to know Details on how
to get to Ustrzyki Doine (where
the owners will collect you) from
Kraków, Rzeszow and Sanok
are on the website ( W www.
ecofrontiers.net/index.php),
which also has details of rooms
and rates plus activities, wildlife
in the region and volunteering
opportunities.

Modern eco design is combined with traditional
Carpathian building techniques (top and middle) at the
remote Eco Frontiers Ranch located in the heart of the
Bieszczady National Park (bottom)