SCANDINAVIA - Clean Breaks: 500 New Ways to See the World - page 102

of February. For more info (in Swedish only) see
W www.mountainexperience.se; T + 46 (0) 6473
5253. This trip has been certified by Nature's Best
(see p.248).

134 TrAcK rEd foXES in
vålådAlEn nATurE rESErvE,
SwEdEn

Speed isn't everything. Of course there's nothing
like the exhilarating, spine-tingling sensation of
hurtling down a mountain slope on a pair of skis
or a snowboard, but that way you've little chance
of coming across any of the shy wildlife that
lives in the mountains. To do that, you're better
off strapping on a pair of snow-shoes and going
walkabout into the wintry beyond.
From the Vålådalen mountain station at
the foot of Ottfjället Mountain in western
Jämtland, two Swedish biologists, Annica and
Torkel Ideström, run shoeing tours through the
hilly, pristine forests of the Vålådalen nature
reserve. Covering 6-10km a day and camping
out at night, you'll investigate tracks of red fox,
moose, reindeer, otter and mountain hare and
learn about survival techniques in the wild. If
you're lucky you may spot the tracks of lynx
and wolverine, or hear the distant barking of
an Arctic fox high above the tree line in the Syl
Massif. And if you live a charmed existence, you
might witness the Northern Lights.
The four-day round trip ends back at the
mountain station where you can have a well-
earned beer and sauna followed by a hearty
dinner, with Arctic char, elk and reindeer on
the menu. If you're not yet ready to return to
civilization, you can book yourself in for a few
days' dog-sledding, cross-country skiing or ice-
fishing. Be warned: downhill skiing can seem a
little one-dimensional after this.

135 bEcomE A liGhT cAmpEr in
dEnmArK

Hike with a tent on your back and you're known
in Denmark as a lette campister (light camper).
Wild camping is not permitted in Denmark, but
the majority of approved campsites put aside
a dedicated area for light campers, so you're
guaranteed a place to pitch your tent even if
the site is otherwise full with baggage-laden
cars.
The west coast of Jutland is particularly
camping-friendly and has several long-distance
footpaths, such as the 180km path from Bulbjerg
to Nymindegab. En route, there are several
campsites that have been certified by the Green
Flag eco label, which identifies camping areas
that limit their use of water and energy, use eco-
friendly washing agents and provide recycling
facilities.
If you want to travel around at a quicker pace,
you can cycle along the 550km-long west-coast
cycle path, which passes through cool dune
plantations, sand heaths and lakes as well as the
recently opened Thy National Park - Denmark's
first national park - where millions of migratory
birds visit in spring and autumn.

Need to know For contact details of all Danish
campsites (those certified by Green Key are
marked) see W www.campingraadet.dk. The Danish
Ramblers' Association helps preserve long-
distance routes; for information about their work
and footpaths see W dvl.dk/352/68. Ferries go from
Harwich on England's west coast to Esbjerg (20hr;
W www.dfdsseaways.co.uk). Bike hire is available
at the harbour (Esbjerg is on the west-coast cycle
path).

Need to know To get there from Stockholm
take the night train to Undersåker ( W www.
sj.se) and then a local bus to Vålådalen, from
where the owners will collect by arrangement.
A four-day snow-shoeing tour costs SEK4900
per person, including equipment, all meals and
a guide (maximum 12 people). Tour departs end