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After a quick dinner of fresh fruit, we slid between the crisp white sheets and
fell asleep. It was comforting to know that my legs wouldn't have to face more tor-
ture in the morning.
We spent one day in Kirov. It was a relief to be among crowds of people. Our
shrunken universe of two had expanded dramatically. Rich 'New Russians', in their
slick clothing and polished cars, looked positively shiny in the sunlight. Babushkas
waddled around in shoals, selling potatoes along the street. Young women pranced
about, straight-backed in stylish dresses, some flaunting long slender legs for the
first time since winter. It is said that the end of spring, with the onset of warm
weather, is when most car crashes occur in Russia, especially among male drivers.
I have always been fascinated by faces and found the Russians' to be especially
expressive. When they are wrapped up in fur hats and coats all that remains is their
large dark eyes and infectious smiles. Hours passed as I wandered about, feasting
on the sight of such a compact display of life.
However, by the end of the day, I had made no real personal connections. On
the empty roads and in the villages we had connected with many people, and I had
never felt isolated. I knew that lingering on would only make me feel alone in the
crowd.
Apart from the people, I relished the availability of ice-cream, the opportunity
to rest my legs, and the chance to give Baba Galya a call; we had promised to keep
in touch.
I made the call from a telegraph station in a little wooden booth. 'Hello, Baba
Galya!' I boomed down the crackly line.
'Hello … Tim … is that you, Tim?' she shrieked.
'Yes, yes, Baba, it's me, we have made it to Kirov!' I said loudly.
'To Kirov! Really, you are already there? How are your toes? You didn't freeze
them? How did my toe warmers work? You know I have been worrying about you
the whole time. Oh boys, oh boys, my good boys!'
'Everything is fine, just fine, don't worry about us. We will ring again from
Perm.'
'Okay, boys, be careful. I will let the rest of the village know. Good luck and
thank God!'
Later on, in a small Internet centre, I watched in amazement as Chris leaned
over the keyboard to tap furiously at the keys, his eyes gleaming. The points of his
mouth rose and fell abruptly, and it looked like he was about to reach out and hug
the screen.
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