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When we were done with paperwork, it was dark outside and I was getting
hungry. All that was left, it seemed, was saying sorry and goodbye. Xiao Wei read
out the final details of our crime: 'This says that you have broken the Chinese law
Section forty-six for riding through a closed town and for riding in China. For this
you must pay … five hundred Yuan. If you agree with this then please sign here. If
you disagree you can take the matter to court.'
'Shiiit! Five hundred Yuan!' Chris shouted. That was about US$62! On a budget
of about four Australian dollars a day, this was mind boggling. In fact, we only had
US$150 cash left in total for Beijing and the train to Hong Kong.
'Five hundred Yuan!' I repeated.
'Yes, and this is only for one person, so together that will be one thousand
Yuan.'
I turned to Chris who had already become a quivering mess. 'But we just don't
have that kind of money!' he pleaded.
'So you want that I ask to lower the price? I think also that it is too much,' Xiao
Wei said. She put her arm around the straight-backed officer and whispered into his
ear in soft, seductive tones.
After a lot of haggling, and a point at which I thought she was about to sit on the
man's lap and start kissing him, we agreed on an awful 600 Yuan. It still amounted
to US$75, but at least it was less.
As we stormed out of the building, my joviality felt well and truly squashed. In
the carpark the police wanted a ride on the bikes. Of course, now that we had paid
the fine, the officer in charge seemed more amenable, although he hinted that his
motorbike was by far the superior machine.
We were taken to a dumpy hotel room opposite the police station and placed
under house arrest. Tomorrow, we were to be sent to Beijing on the train, and no
more riding would be permitted. The next train out of Houqi didn't leave until the
following evening. Only then would we be given back our passports.
All was not lost, though. As our friend waved goodbye for the night, she prom-
ised to take us on a tour and, if possible, would organise for us to talk to her stu-
dents.
When we were finally alone, we flopped exhausted onto hard narrow beds and
flicked on the crappy television. The opening ceremony of the Paralympics in
Sydney was on. Despite our money woes I found some pleasure in having a shower
and lying down on a real bed to vegetate, something I hadn't done for a long time.
'At least it's a nice prison cell,' Chris mumbled, dejectedly.
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