Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
the oil spilled over my lips, fast lubricating my beard and sweaty fingers, I fell into
moments of pure ecstasy. Even with my stomach at near bursting point, I couldn't
help indulging. I was making up for all those desperately hungry times. I spent the
first couple of afternoons snoozing in the apartment, my grin oiled with mutton fat.
I dreamed of food to come and food past.
While I ate myself towards obesity, Chris was relishing the other luxury of
Ulaan Baatar - a million and one Internet cafés. He disappeared early in the morn-
ing and returned late at night after epic sessions of indulgence.
On the third day things took a downward turn. After a whirlwind tour to the
Buddhist monastery and the
ger
suburbs, we fronted up to the Chinese embassy.
Up until this point we had not planned, or even given thought, to the logistics of
getting to Beijing. The man at reception was categorical in his response: we could
not travel by bicycle through China without the permission of the Chinese Tourist
Authority.
The problem with travel in China is that the law restricted foreigners to travel
only by government-approved transport. This was probably in place to prevent
tourists from straying into 'closed' areas. Getting permission would mean having a
Chinese tour guide.
Was this the end then? In a wave of panic we rushed out of the embassy to quell
our nerves by writing e-mails of distress. Finishing short of our goal would feel
empty. As tired as we were, I was ready for more adventure. Or, rather, I would do
anything for more breathing space between now and getting home.
We shot off e-mails to other adventure cyclists, and put up our problem on the
message boards of travel Web-sites. After a couple of hours of fierce writing and a
few
khuushurs
, I returned to the embassy determined.
Eventually, I came to the front of the queue. 'Hello, I just had some more queries
about travelling by bicycle in China.'
'All I can say is that you can't,' the man cut me off angrily.
'Okay. But I was wondering if there are any considerations at all, if the expedi-
tion is official, and we have contacts in China?' I asked, pleadingly.
'All I can say is no. Maybe you can, but maybe you can't.'
I stormed from the counter, feeling confused, only to be approached by a lanky
European. 'I hear that you are wanting to go by bike in China?' he said. 'Well, don't
worry about the embassy too much - don't take them so seriously.' He ushered me
outside. 'I have personally ridden a bike in China and, in fact, I know there are
