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'Oh, I don't know. They're pretty expensive,' I replied.
'For you, they are free. C'mon, let's eat!' the man growled. 'Give us four shash-
lik now!' the brute barked. There was nothing to suggest that the poor vendor
would be paid.
More men arrived as we were handed the greasy pork meat. They all showed
off bulging arms, shiny sunglasses, short haircuts and western clothes, and greeted
each other with bone-crushing handshakes and deep grunting noises.
Chris and I faded into the background as fat wads of money started circulating. I
was more interested in gobbling down the hot shashlik than anything else. Return-
ing to our bench, I discovered that the three wild boys had taken an interest in our
bikes. 'Don't touch!' I yelled between mouthfuls, and watched them scurry away
like frightened mice. I hadn't meant to be so aggressive and felt bad.
After licking the skewer free of luxurious grease, I left Chris to buy some food
supplies. Not far away several glum old men sat in front of buckets of shrivelled
potatoes that were obviously leftovers from the previous year's crop. I approached
them but before I could finish asking for the potatoes I was interrupted.
'Hello, take this jacket! Buy this!' I looked over to see a gypsy woman holding
up a fake leather jacket.
'No, sorry, I don't need it. Thanks,' I replied.
'Take it! Take it!' she insisted.
'What, you mean for free?' I asked with a grin.
'No. For five hundred roubles.'
'Well, I don't need it!'
Meanwhile, the potato men were squabbling over who would find a plastic bag
for my potatoes.
'Come here, boy! Come here,' squealed the gypsy woman. 'Closer! Closer!'
She sat squat like a plump walrus. 'Give me your hand!' she demanded. I held
out my hand and she examined it with a passing glance. 'Now, if you put twenty
roubles into my hand, I will tell you your future.'
I laughed and walked away. By the time I returned to Chris, the gypsy and her
family were huddled around him.
'Give my child sweet biscuits!' she was screeching.
The three boys were still standing behind a tree, hiding their arms inside long-
sleeve jumpers. Now and then they looked down their tops and took deep breaths.
Then one boy ripped something out of another's jumper. It was a plastic bag, prob-
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