Hangzhou - Explore Shanghai - page 214

Continue south on Bai Causeway to the Autumn Moon on a Calm Lake pavilion (Pinghu
Qiuyue), much depicted in paintings and one of the traditional spots from which to view the
lake. A small road to the right leads to Crane Pavilion (Fanghe Ting), built in 1915 in
memory of the Song Dynasty poet Lin Hejing, who is said to have lived here alone with only
a crane for company.
Just to the west of Autumn Moon on a Calm Lake pavilion, stop for lunch at Lou Wai Lou ,
see 1 , Hangzhou's most famous restaurant, with stupendous lake views and delicious clas-
sic Hangzhou dishes - make sure you reserve in advance.
GU SHAN ISLAND
Bai Di causeway connects the mainland with Gu Shan Island (Gushan Dao), home to the
impressive Zhejiang Provincial Museum 2 [map] (Zhejiang Sheng Bowuguan; 25 Gushan
Lu; Tue-Sun 9am-5pm; free). Built in 1929 in the Modernist Sino-Western 'Nanjing Decade'
architectural style, the library is located on the lush grounds of Ming Emperor Qianlong's
palace, when the capital was in Hangzhou. The seven halls hold more than 100,000 cultural
relics; highlights include the renowned Celadon Hall.
A short walk west is the Xiling Seal Engraving Society (Xiling Yinshe; 8.30am-4.30pm;
free), with fascinating exhibitions of seals through the ages displayed in pavilions dotted
along the hillside. Head behind the Society buildings, up the worn path to the 11-storey unre-
stored Pagoda of Avatamsaka Sutra (Huayanjing Ta), built in 1924. The pagoda and sur-
rounding area is a delightfully quiet spot where locals come for a cup of tea. Surrounded by
trees, it makes a lovely place for a break.
Head back down to Gu Shan's southern gate, where you'll find the Sigillography Mu-
seum (Zhongghuo Yingxue Bowuguan; daily 8.30am-4.30pm; free). The small, very modern
museum recounts the history of the Chinese seal, with displays ranging from clay shards to
tiny carved seals.
TOMBS AND TEMPLES
Nearby is the Tomb and Temple of Yue Fei 3 [map] (Yuefen He Yuemiao; west of Beishan
Lu; daily 7am-6pm; charge), a memorial to the 12th-century Song patriot commander who,
despite his success against invaders from the north, was framed, arrested and killed with his
son Yueyang on trumped-up charges. He was exonerated and given a proper burial 21 years
after his death, in 1163. No longer a functioning temple, its main hall is dominated by a Yue
Fei statue with a plaque in Chinese that reads: 'Recover our lost territories' (a reference to
Taiwan). Eight murals tell the story of Yue Fei's life. Laid out as a Song Dynasty garden, the
temple is connected to the tomb grounds. The back of the temple leads to the Temple of the
Purple Cloud (Ziyun Dong), the oldest natural cave on the ridge. From here, it's a pleasant