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mission “to preserve, interpret and promote the African American cultural
heritage of New Orleans, with a particular emphasis on the Treme commu-
nity.” The museum offers walking tours covering such landmarks as St.
Augustine's Church, Congo Square, and a row of Creole cottages. As of this
writing, the museum had closed for a $6 million renovation but was continu-
ing the walking tours.
Walk one and a half blocks to North Robertson Street, turn left, then walk
two and a half blocks to the Candlelight Lounge, a legendary Treme music
club. It's a dive, but a dive worth visiting, especially on Wednesday nights,
when you can get free red beans and rice while enjoying the rollicking sounds
of the Treme Brass Band. The band, led by snare drummer Benny Jones Sr.,
starts doing its thing around 9 p.m., and the place is almost always packed.
Adjacent to the Candlelight is Tuba Fats Square, named for Anthony “Tuba
Fats” Lacen, a founding member of the Dirty Dozen Brass Band and, until
his death in 2004, the city's most famous tuba player. Every year, on the
Tuesday night after the New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival, some of the
city's top brass musicians converge on Tuba Fats Square for Tuba Fats Tues-
day, a musical celebration in Lacen's memory.
Walk two and a half blocks to Basin Street, cross Basin, and turn left. Circle
right around Basin past the Basin St. Station, a restored Southern Railway
station that now serves as a visitor-information and cultural center. If you
have time, stop in and learn about New Orleans through exhibits, murals,
art, music, crafts, and entertainment.
Continue on Basin to St. Louis Street. At the corner is St. Louis Cemetery
No. 1. Founded in 1789 and listed on the National Register of Historic Places,
it is the oldest existing cemetery in New Orleans. It's also the final resting
spot for voodoo queen Marie Laveau; Étienne de Boré, the first mayor of
New Orleans, who also produced the first granulated sugar; and Paul
Morphy, a world-renowned chess player. If you're interested in walking
through the cemetery, we strongly advise taking a formal tour. One of the
best is conducted by Save Our Cemeteries, a nonprofit group dedicated to
preserving the city's historic burial grounds. Ninety percent of the ticket
price goes to cemetery restoration, education, and advocacy.
Cross Basin Street at St. Louis and walk one block to North Rampart Street.
Turn left at North Rampart and continue back to the starting point at Louis
Armstrong Park.
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