PROVENCE - France 2014 - page 949

Fordetailsonthenexttwoplaces,seetheirlistingsunder“SleepinginArles,”earlier.
Hôtel le Calendal serves lunch in its lovely courtyard (€12-18, daily 12:00-15:00) or de-
licious little sandwiches for€2.50each at its small café. Hôtel Voltaire, well-situated ona
pleasing square, serves simple three-course lunches and dinners at honest prices to a loy-
al clientele (€13 menus ; hearty plats and filling salads for €10—try the salade fermière,
salade Latine, or the filling assiette Provençale; closed Sun evening).
A Gastronomic Dining Experience
(See “Arles Hotels & Restaurants” map, here . )
One of France's most recognized chefs, Jean-Luc Rabanel, has created a sensation with
two very different options 50 yards from Place de la République (at 7 Rue des Carmes).
They sit side by side, both offering indoor and terrace seating.
L'Atelier is so intriguing that people travel great distances just for the experience.
Diners fork over €110 (at lunch, you'll spoon out €60) and trust the chef to create a mem-
orable meal...which he does—and Monsieur Michelin agrees, having just awarded him a
secondstar.Thereisnomenu,justanonslaughtofdelicioustastesensationsservedinartsy
dishes. Don't plan on a quick dinner, and don't come for a traditional setting; rooms are
très contemporary. Several outdoor tables are also available. You'll probably see or hear
the famous chef. Hint: He has long salt-and-pepper hair and a deep voice (closed Mon-
Tue, best to book ahead, friendly servers will hold your hand through this palate-widening
experience, tel. [phone], www.rabanel.com ).
A Côté saddlesupnextdoor,offeringasmartwinebar/bistroambienceandtop-qual-
ity cuisine for far less. Here you can sample the famous chef's talents for as little as €18
(daily plat ) or as much as €38 (three-course menu, smallish servings, reasonably priced
wines, open daily, tel. [phone], www.bistro-acote.com ) .
Arles Connections
By Train
SometrainsinandoutofArlesrequirea reservation. TheseincludeconnectionswithNice
to the east and Bordeaux to the west (including intermediary stops). Ask at the station.
From Arles by Train to: Paris (11/day, 2 direct TGVs—4 hours, 9 with transfer in
Avignon—5 hours), Avignon Centre-Ville (roughly hourly, 20 minutes, less frequent in
the afternoon), Nîmes (9/day, 30 minutes), Orange (4/day direct, 35 minutes, more fre-
quentwithtransferinAvignon), Aix-en-Provence Centre-Ville (10/day,2.25hours,trans-
fer in Marseille, train may separate midway—be sure you're in section going to Aix-en-
Provence), Marseille (11/day, 1.5 hours), Cassis (7/day, 2 hours), Carcassonne (8/day,