Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Provençal “bullgames” are held in Arles and in neighboring towns. Those in Arles occupy
the same seats that fans have used for nearly 2,000 years, and take in the city's most
memorable experience—the
courses camarguaises
in the ancient arena. The nonviolent
“bullgames” are more sporting than bloody bullfights (though traditional Spanish-style
bullfights still take place on occasion). The bulls of Arles (who, locals stress, “die of old
age”) are promoted in posters even more boldly than their human foes. In the bullgame, a
ribbon
(cocarde)
is laced between the bull's horns. The
razeteur,
with a special hook, has
15 minutes to snare the ribbon. Local businessmen encourage a
razeteur
(dressed in white
with a red cummerbund) by shouting out how much money they'll pay for the
cocarde
. If
the bull pulls a good stunt, the band plays the famous “Toreador” song from
Carmen
. The
following day, newspapers report on the games, including how many
Carmens
the bull
earned.
Three classes of bullgames—determined by the experience of the
razeteurs
—are ad-
vertisedinposters:The
coursedeprotection
isforrookies.The
trophéedel'Avenir
comes
with more experience. And the
trophée des As
features top professionals. During Easter
and the fall rice-harvest festival (Féria du Riz), the arena hosts traditional Spanish bull-
fights (look for
corrida
) with outfits, swords, spikes, and the whole gory shebang.
Don't pass on a chance to see
Toro Piscine,
a silly spectacle for warm summer even-
ings where the bull ends up in a swimming pool (uh-huh...get more details at the TI or
check online at
www.ffcc.info
—French only, click on
Calendrier des Courses
for sched-
ules). Nearby villages stage
courses camarguaises
in small wooden bullrings nearly every
weekend; TIs have the latest schedule.
Cost and Hours:
Arles' bullgame tickets usually run €5-15; bullfights are pricier
(€34-85). Schedules vary (usually July-Aug on Wed and Fri)—ask at the TI or check on-
line at
www.arenes-arles.com
.
Hotels are a great value here—many are air-conditioned, though few have elevators. The
Calendal, Musée, and Régence hotels offer exceptional value.
$$$ Hôtel le Calendal***
is a seductive place located between the Roman Arena
and Classical Theater. Enter an expertly run hotel with airy lounges and a lovely palm-
shaded courtyard. Enjoy the elaborate €12 buffet breakfast, have lunch in the courtyard
or at the inexpensive sandwich bar (daily 12:00-15:00), and take advantage of their four
free laptops for guests. You'll also find a Jacuzzi and a spa with a Turkish bath, hot pool,
and massages at good rates. The comfortable rooms sport Provençal decor and come in all
shapes and sizes (standard Db-€119, larger or balcony Db-€139, spacious Db-€169, Tb/
Qb-€169, air-con, Wi-Fi, reserve ahead for parking-€8, just above arena at 5 Rue Porte
