Travel Reference
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laten Folk Museum, described later) at a time when France was rapidly centralizing. (The
local mistral wind—literally, “master”—has nothing to do with his name.)
The bright-yellow café —calledCafélaNuit—wasthesubjectofoneofVincentvan
Gogh's most famous works in Arles. Although his painting showed the café in a brilli-
ant yellow from the glow of gas lamps, the facade was bare limestone, just like the other
cafés on this square. The café's current owners have painted it to match Van Gogh's ver-
sion...and to cash in on the Vincent-crazed hordes who pay too much to eat or drink here.
• With your back to Café la Nuit, walk left one block (past Grand Hôtel Nord Pinus) and
turn left. Walk through Hôtel de Ville's vaulted entry (or take the next right if it's closed),
and pop out onto the big...
Republic Square (Place de la République)
This square used to be called “Place Royale”...until the French Revolution. The obelisk
was the former centerpiece of Arles' Roman Circus. The lions at its base are the symbol
of the city, whose slogan is (roughly) “the gentle lion.” Find a seat and watch the peas-
ants—pilgrims, locals, and street musicians. There's nothing new about this scene.
• Find the exquisitely carved facade of...
▲▲▲ St. Trophime Church
Named after a third-century bishop of Arles, this church sports the finest Romanesque
main entrance I've seen anywhere. The Romanesque-and-Gothic interior, with tapestries
and relics, is worth a wander. The cloisters are skippable.
Cost and Hours: Church—free, daily April-Sept 9:00-12:00 & 14:00-18:30, Oct-
March 9:00-12:00 & 14:00-17:00; cloisters—€3.50, similar hours as church, but open all
day (no lunch break).
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