PROVENCE - France 2014 - page 909

forcenturies,thecitybecameasleepybackwateroflittleimportanceinthe1700s.Vincent
van Gogh settled here in the late 1800s, but left only a chunk of his ear (now long gone).
AmericanbombersdestroyedmuchofArlesinWorldWarIIasthetownsfolkhidoutinits
undergroundRomangalleries.ButtodayArlesthrivesagain,withitsevocativeRomanru-
ins, an eclectic assortment of museums, made-for-ice-cream pedestrian zones, and squares
that play hide-and-seek with visitors.
Workaday Arles is not a wealthy city, and compared to its neighbors Avignon and
Nîmes, it feels unpolished and even a little dirty. But to me, that's part of its charm.
Orientation to Arles
Arles faces the Mediterranean, turning its back on Paris. And though the town is built
along the Rhône, it largely ignores the river. Landmarks hide in Arles' medieval tangle of
narrow, winding streets. Virtually everything is close—but first-timers can walk forever to
get there. Hotels have good, free city maps, and Arles provides helpful street-corner signs
thatpointyoutowardsightsandhotels.SpeedingcarsenjoyArles'medievallanes,turning
sidewalks into tightropes and pedestrians into leaping targets.
Tourist Information
The main TI is on the ring road Boulevard des Lices, at Esplanade Charles de Gaulle
(April-Septdaily9:00-18:45;Oct-MarchMon-Sat9:00-16:45,Sun10:00-13:00;tel.0490
18 41 20, www.arlestourisme.com ) . There's also a train station TI (Mon-Fri 9:30-13:00
& 14:00-18:00, closed Sat-Sun).
AteitherTI,pickupthecitymapandbusschedules,andrequestEnglishinformation
on nearby destinations such as the Camargue wildlife area (described on here ) . Ask
about “bullgames” in Arles and nearby towns (Provence's more humane version of bull-
fights—see here )andwalkingtours.Skiptheuseless€1brochuredescribingseveralwalks
in Arles, including one that locates Van Gogh's “easels” (better explained on here ) . Both
TIs can help you reserve hotel rooms (credit card required for deposit).
Arrival in Arles
By Train: The train station is on the river, a 10-minute walk from the town center. Before
heading into town, get what you need at the train station TI. There's no baggage storage at
the station, but you can walk 10 minutes to stow it at Hôtel Régence (see “Helpful Hints,”
later).
To reach the town center or Ancient History Museum from the train station, wait for
the free Envia minibus at the glass shelter facing away from the station (cross the street