Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
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View from the Beach
Walk out to the jetty's end, past the church and the little chapel, and find a spot along
the rail. Collioure has been a popular place since well before your visit. For more than
2,500 years, people have battled to control its enviable position on the Mediterranean at
the foot of the Pyrenees. The mountains rising behind Collioure provide a natural defense,
and its port gives it a commercial edge, making Collioure an irresistible target. A string of
forts defended Collioure's landlocked side. To the left, you can see the still-standing Fort
St. Elme (built by powerful Spanish king Charles V, the same guy who built El Escorial
near Madrid). The 2,100-foot-high observation tower of Madeloc rises way above, front
and center, and scattered ruins crown several other hilltops. Topping the village to the far
right is the 18th-century
citadelle,
Fort Mirador, now home to a French Marine base. Back
to the left, that ancient windmill (1344) was originally used for grain; today it grinds out
olive oil. The stony soil and dry weather conditions in the hills above Collioure are ideal
for growing grapes. Those beautiful terraced vineyards, averaging 250 days of sunshine
a year, grow primarily Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre grapes, which make terrific reds
and rosés.
Collioure'smedievaltownhunkersdownbetweenitschurchandroyalchâteau,sand-
wiched defensively and spiritually between the two. The town was batted back and forth
between the French and Spanish for centuries. Locals just wanted to be left alone—as
Catalans, and most still do today (notice the yellow-and-red Catalan flag flying above the
château). The town was Spanish for nearly 400 years before becoming definitively French
in1659(
merci
toLouisXIV).Afteryearsofneglect,Colliourewasrediscoveredbyartists
drawn to its pastel houses and lovely setting. Henri Matisse, André Derain, Pablo Picas-
so, Georges Braque, Raoul Dufy, and Marc Chagall all dipped their brushes here at one
timeoranother.You'relikelytorecognizeCollioureinpaintingsinmanymuseumsacross
Europe.
The 800-year-old castle, built over Roman ruins, served as home over the years to Ma-
jorcan kings, Crusaders, Dominican monks, and Louis XIV (who had the final say on the
appearance we see now). Today it serves tourists, offering great rampart walks, views, and
mildly interesting local history exhibits.
Cost and Hours:
€4, daily June-Sept 10:00-18:00, Oct-May 9:00-17:00, last entry
45 minutes before closing, tel. 04 68 82 06 43.
This waterfront church is worth a gander (daily 9:00-18:00). Find a pew and listen to
the waves while searching your soul. Supporting a guiding light (in more than one way),
