Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
in the same fat). Not for dieters. (Note that Magret de canard is sliced duck breast and
very different in taste.)
Coq au vin: This Burgundian dish is rooster marinated ever so slowly in red wine,
then cooked until it melts in your mouth. It's served (often family-style) with vegetables.
Daube: Generally made with beef, but sometimes lamb, this is a long and slowly
simmered dish, typically paired with noodles or other pasta.
Escalope normande: A favorite from Normandy, this is turkey or veal in a cream
sauce.
Gigot d'agneau: A specialty of Provence, this is a leg of lamb often grilled and
served with white beans. The best lamb is pré salé, which means the lamb has been raised
in salt-marsh lands (like at Mont St-Michel).
Poulet roti: Found everywhere, it's roasted chicken on the bone—French comfort
food.
French Wine-Tasting 101
France is peppered with wineries and wine-tasting opportunities. The American
wine-tasting experience (I'm thinking Napa Valley) is generally informal, chatty,
and entrepreneurial (logo-adorned baseball caps and golf shirts). In France, your
hosts are not there to make small talk; you're likely to find them “all business.”
For some people, it can be overwhelming to try to make sense of the vast range of
French wines, particularly when faced with a no-nonsense winemaker or sommeli-
er. Take a deep breath, do your best to follow the instructions in this sidebar, and
don't linger where you don't feel welcome. (I've tried to identify which vineyards
aremostacceptingofwinenovices.)Visitseveralprivatewineries,orstopbya cave
coopérative or a caveau —an excellent opportunity to taste wines from a number of
vintners in a single, less intimidating setting. You'll have a better experience if you
call ahead to let them know you're coming—even if the winery is open all day, it's
good form to announce your visit (ask your hotelier for help). Avoid visiting places
betweennoonand14:00,whenmanyareclosed—andthosethatareopenarestaffed
by people who would rather be at lunch.
Winemakers are happy to work with you... if they can figure out what you want
(whichtheyexpectyoutoalreadyknow).Whenyouenterawinery,ithelpstoknow
what you like (drier or sweeter, lighter or full-bodied, fruity or more tannic, and
so on). The people serving you may know those words in English, but you're wise
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