LANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLON - France 2014 - page 869

ment pool, secure parking-€10, lots of groups, rental bikes, 2 Avenue Maréchal Joffre, tel.
04 68 25 25 00, www.soleilvacances.com , [e-mail] ).
$$ Hôtel Astoria**, runbydelightful Marc and Sevrine, offers some ofthe cheapest
hotel beds that I list in town, divided between a main hotel and an annex across the street.
The shiny, tiled, and colorful rooms are modern and clean. Call ahead; it's popular (D-
€35-49, Ds-€47-62, Db-€57-72, Tb/Qb-€67-96, 6 rooms have air-con, Wi-Fi, parking-€5;
fromthetrainstation,walkacrossthecanal,turnleft,andgotwoblocksto18RueTourtel;
tel. [phone], www.astoriacarcassonne.com , [e-mail] ).
Near Carcassonne, in Caunes-Minervois
Toexperienceunspoiled,tranquilLanguedoc-Roussillon,sleepsurroundedbyvineyardsin
the authentic-feeling village of Caunes-Minervois. Comfortably nestled in the foothills of
the Montagne Noire, Caunes-Minervois—a 25-minute drive from Carcassonne (take route
D-118 to a big roundabout and exit onto D-620)—offers an eighth-century abbey (com-
plete with Internet access), two cafés, a good pizzeria, a handful of wineries, and very few
tourists. The friendly staff at the town's TI is eager to help you explore the region.
$$ Hôtel d'Alibert**, in a 15th-century home with ambience galore, sits in the
heart of the village. It has a mix of nicely renovated, Old World traditional rooms. It's
managed with a relaxed je ne sais quoi by Frédéric “call me Fredo” Dalibert (standard
Db-€80, huge Db-€90, extra person-€10, includes breakfast and bottle of local wine on
arrival, Wi-Fi, Place de la Mairie, tel. [phone], www.hoteldalibert.com , freder-
[e-mail] ) . Eat lunch or dinner in his terrific restaurant (closed Sun dinner-
Mon).
Nearby, in Le Somail: Drivers who want to experience the Canal du Midi boating
scene sleep in Le Somail, a picturesque hamlet that has changed little since the construc-
tion of the canal in the 1600s. The town has an impressive bookshop, three art galleries,
and two restaurants. Sleep at $$ La Maison des Escalliers, where Tina and Ruud have
created a beautiful B&B with five stylish and comfortable rooms in their restored 19th-
century house. Breakfast is served by the pool with views of the vineyards (D-€70, Db-
€80-90, whole house-€2,000-2,600, 6 Rue Paul Riquet, tel. [phone], mobile 06 79
55 33 37, www.patiasses.com , [e-mail] ) .
Eating in Carcassonne
ForasocialoutinginLaCité,takeyourpickfromafoodcircusofbasiceateriesonaleafy
courtyard—often with strolling musicians in the summer—on lively Place Marcou (just
insidethefrontgateanduptotheleft).Ifrubbingelbowswithtoomanytouristsgivesyou