Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
France. When the lights are off (as they often are), the interior—lit only by candles and
14th-century stained glass—is evocatively medieval. A plaque near the door tells that St.
Dominique (founder of the Dominican order) preached at this church in 1213 (Mon-Sat
9:00-11:45 & 13:45-18:00, Sun 9:00-10:45 & 14:00-18:00, Sun Mass at 11:00).
Hôtel de la Cité:
Located 50 steps from St. Nazaire Church, this beyond-posh hotel
sits where the Bishop's Palace did 700 years ago. Today, it's a worthwhile detour to see
how the privileged few travel. You're free to wander, so find the library-cozy bar (€8 beer
and wine), then find the rear garden and turn right for super wall views that you can't see
from anywhere else.
• From here, follow Rue St. Louis (passing Chez Saskia on your left) for several blocks,
merge right onto Rue Port d'Aude, then look for a small castle-view terrace on your left a
block up.
Château Comtal:
Originally built in 1125, Carcassonne's third layer of defense was
completely redesigned in later reconstructions. From this impressive viewpoint you can
seethewoodenrampartextensionsthatoncecircledtheentirecitywall.(Noticetheempty
peg holes to the left of the bridge.) When
Robin Hood: Prince of Thieves,
starring Kevin
Costner,wasfilmed here in1990,the entire city wasturned into afilm set. Locals enjoyed
playingbitpartsandseeingtheirchâteaulabeled“Nottingham Castle” inthefancifulfilm.
Château Comtal is open to the public and makes for a worthwhile visit. A well-done
intro film with impressive sound sets the stage for your visit (sit on the left to read English
subtitles). Next is a room-size model of La Cité, after which a self-guided tour leads you
around the inner ramparts of Carcassonne's defenses, allowing you to see the underpin-
nings of the towers and of the catwalks that hung from the walls. The views are terrific.
YourvisitendswithamuseumshowingbitsofSt.NazaireChurchandfragmentsfromim-
portant homes (€8.50, audioguide-€4.50 or €6/2 people, April-Sept daily 9:30-18:30, Oct-
March 9:30-17:00, last entry 45 minutes before closing, tel. 04 68 11 70 77).
• Fifty yards away, opposite the entrance to the castle, is...
Place du Château:
This busy little square sports a modest statue honoring the man
who saved the city from deterioration and neglect in the 19th century. The bronze model
circling the base of the statue shows Carcassonne's walls as they looked before the 1855
reconstruction by Eugène Viollet-le-Duc.
• Facing the château entry, Place du Grand Puits lies a block to your right. It's named
for the oldest of Carcassonne's 22 wells, which served the city in the Middle Ages. Behind
you, the main drag leads down to the Narbonne Gate, where you began this walk.
