Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Lautrec's famous advertising posters, which were his bread and butter. He was an in-
novative advertiser, creating simple, bold, and powerful lithographic images. You'll find
displays of his original lithograph blocks (simply prepare the stone with a backward im-
age, apply ink—which sticks chemically to the black points—and print posters). Four-col-
or posters meant creating four different blocks. Many of the displayed works show differ-
entstagesoftheprintingprocess—firstwithblackink,thentheredlayer,thenthefinished
poster. The Moulin Rouge poster established his business reputation in Paris—strong
symbols, bold and simple: just what, where, and when. Cabaret singer and club owner
Aristide Bruant ( dans son cabaret —“in his cabaret”) is portrayed as bold and dashing.
Next, move on to other portraits of Parisian misfits and finally the darker works he
painted before his death. The upper floors display a skippable permanent collection of
older works and modern art.
Toulouse-Lautrec's cane offers more insight into this tortured artistic genius (if you
can'tfinditaskaguard,butit'softenawayonloan).Toprotecthimfromhisself-destruct-
ive lifestyle, loved ones had him locked up in a psychiatric hospital. But, with the help of
this clever hollow cane, he still got his booze. Friends would drop by with hallucinogen-
ic absinthe, his drink of choice—also popular among many other artists of the time. With
these special deliveries, he'd restock his cane, which even came equipped with a fancy
little glass.
In 1901, at age 37, alcoholic, paranoid, depressed, and syphilitic, Henri de Toulouse-
Lautrec returned to his mother—the only woman who ever really loved him—and died in
her arms. The art world didn't mourn. Obituaries, speaking for the art establishment, ba-
sically said goodriddance toToulouse-Lautrec andhisuglyart.Although nooneintheart
world wanted Henri's pieces, his mother and his best friend—a boyhood pal and art dealer
named Maurice Joyant—recognized his genius and saved his work. They first offered it to
the Louvre, which refused. Finally, in 1922, the mayor of Albi accepted the collection and
hung Toulouse-Lautrec's work here in what, for more than a century, had been a boring
museum of archaeology.
• Leave the Toulouse-Lautrec Museum courtyard and turn right, then follow the cobbled
path to the gardens for a good city view over the Tarn River (described next).
More Sights in Albi
Albi Town View
Albi was situated here because of its river access to Bordeaux (which connected the town
to the global market). In medieval times, the fastest, most economical way to transport
goods was down rivers like this. The lower, older bridge (Pont Vieux) was first built in
1020. Prior to its construction, the weir (look just beyond this first bridge) provided a
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