Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
(above)withaprintedaccountingoftheirgoodandbaddeedsdisplayedinledgersontheir
chests. Judgment, here we come. Those on the left (God's right) look confident and com-
fortable. Those on the right—the hedonists—look edgy. Get closer. Below, on both sides
of the arch, are seven frames illustrating a wonderland of gruesome punishments sinners
couldsufferthroughwhileattempting toearnasecondchanceatsalvation. Thosewhofail
end up in the black clouds of Hell (upper right).
But where's Jesus—the key figure in any Judgment Day painting? The missing arch
in the middle (cut out in late-Renaissance times to open the way to a new chapel) once
featuredChristoverseeingtheaction.Gobacktothelastpewandfindtheblack-and-white
imageonasmallstand.Thepictureprovidesagoodguessathowthispaintingwouldhave
looked—though no one knows for sure. The assembly above (on the left) shows the heav-
enly hierarchy: The pope and bishops sit closest to (the missing) Jesus; then more bishops
andpriests—beforekings—followedbymonks;andthen,finally,commonerslikeyouand
me.Tolearnmoreaboutthe
LastJudgment,
tourthechoir(describedlater),whichincludes
an audioguide with commentary on the painting.
The
altar
is the newest art in the church. But this is not the front of the church at
all—you're facing west. Turn 180 degrees and head east, for Jerusalem (where most me-
dieval churches point).
• Stop first at the choir—a fancy, more intimate room within the finely carved stone
“screen.”
The Choir:
IntheMiddleAges,nearlyallcathedralshadornateGothicchoirscreens
like this one. These highly decorated walls divided the church into a private place for
clergy and a general zone for the common rabble. The screen enclosed the altar and ad-
ded mystery to the Mass. In the 16th century, with the success of the Protestant movement
and the Catholic Church's Counter-Reformation, choir screens were removed. (In the 20th
century,theChurchtookthingsonestepfurther,andpriestsactuallyturnedandfacedtheir
parishioners.)Later,FrenchRevolutionaryatheistsdestroyedmostofthechoirscreensthat
remained—Albi's is a rare survivor.
Pay €2 to stroll around the choir (excellent audioguide included, follow the English
diagram). You'll see Old Testament figures in the Dark Ages exterior and New Testament
figures in the enlightened interior. Stepping inside, marvel at the fine limestone carving.
Scan each of the 72 unique little angels just above the wood-paneled choir stalls. Check
out the brilliant ceiling, which hasn't been touched or restored in 500 years. A bishop, im-
pressed by the fresco technique of the Italian Renaissance, invited seven Florentine artists
to do the work. Good call.
• Exit through the side door, next to where you paid for the choir. You'll pass a WC on
your way to the...
